What should AC compressor & replacement cost? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-13-2006, 05:35 AM   #11
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Had mine done at the start of summer. 675.00 plus tax. Brand new compressor, not reman.
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Old 07-13-2006, 01:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ron350
lash

My compressor started leaking oil over two years ago and I have put off replacing it till now.
If the discharge port and the matching line is clean I will leave the condenser and line set alone.
If I find chunks of Teflon piston and crud on the o-tube screen I donít know what I will do.
Maybe pull my hair out and scream. LOL
You've got it right. I actually had an issue with a failed compressor that I had the Techs at my old work replace for me. I should have done it myself, because I would have seen the crap in the discharge side of the compressor.

Anyway, the crud from the blown compressor clogged a few of the condensor microtubes and I had real isssues with very high pressure in the discharge tube for quite a while. I discharged the system, replaced the orifice tube in the liquid line, which had collapsed from all the accumulated garbage that got through the condensor, blew out the condensor with some high pressure air, vacc'ed everything out and was able to use the system just fine after that.

I was fortunate that there weren't any particles large enough to permanently clog the condensor.

I also went through two replacement remanufactured compressors on that one before I got a good one. That'* why I prefer to pay the extra for a factory new one when possible.
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Old 07-29-2006, 11:45 AM   #13
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Bonneville Club is -- GREAT. Most times, searching for a topic get me the info I need.
If I may add to this discussion on costs, and get any comments:

One day, I drive to work: Have AC.
Get in car to go home: No AC.

My mechanic (been using them for years) did a check.
They said the condenser has a hole in it, and hence leaked all regrigerant. Plus the compressor is leaking oil out of the seal.
The say I need both replaced, plus the drier, and orifice tube, plus evacuate and re-charge system.

Parts: They said that the compressor was about $500, the condenser anout $200 something, plus the other parts, and then the labor. And oh yes, my air fan switch needs fixing too - high setting is going bad.

Quote:
AC work: $1300 (all inclusive)
Fan switch work: $135 (all inclusive)
Holy smokes.
Location: NJ, where, I admit, everything probably costs more (except maybe gas.)

Side comment:
If I wait to get this fixed (if I get it fixed), I'm told that as long as I do not engage the AC, or the defrost settings, which engage the compressor clutch, I can keep driving without too much of a problem (except sweating through my shirt :( ). If I engage the clutch with the compressor empty of oil, it will eventually sieze up, which makes sense to me.
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Old 07-29-2006, 02:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wf2tm51
this is my exact invoice for my ac repair i had done this fall
A/C Compressor $510.04
A/C Dryer 65.18
R-134a per lb 29.95 (2lbs)
Labor 150.40
5% discount -39.20

Sub-total 746.24
tax 44.77

total 791.01

i gave him 800 bucks and he gave me a ten back i love going to local shops they appreciate your bussiness, the actual discount i got i needed to purchase some special card but he didn't even bother selling me it. however later that winter when i went to do an oil change i looked at the bottom of the compressor and it had a sticker on it that said remanufactured compressor they forgot to mention that in their invoice however i've had no problems so far so i'm happy, side note i thnk i might try and learn to fix broken compressors might make some good side cash
Sounds like "new" price and "reman" compressor. No wonder he was willing to give you the extra $1 in change back!
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Old 07-30-2006, 03:10 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluBonne
Quote:
AC work: $1300 (all inclusive)
Fan switch work: $135 (all inclusive)
Holy smokes.
Location: NJ, where, I admit, everything probably costs more (except maybe gas.)

Side comment:
If I wait to get this fixed (if I get it fixed), I'm told that as long as I do not engage the AC, or the defrost settings, which engage the compressor clutch, I can keep driving without too much of a problem (except sweating through my shirt :( ). If I engage the clutch with the compressor empty of oil, it will eventually sieze up, which makes sense to me.
That all sounds correct. In another thread, I covered what ultimately happened to my car: Tensioner seized up on the way home from work, shredded the belt, ripped through part of the power steering pump reservoir. I had the tensioner, PS pump, AC Compressor, & belt all replaced, along with an oil change. Total was $2114. This was at my Pontiac dealership.

I no doubt pay more for labor by going to the dealership. But on the other hand, I don't have any other good mechanic nearby that I know of and trust, and some that I've used in the past have just cost me more money when I eventually had the dealership undo the stuff the other guys did wrong. I know that for almost anything on my car that can go wrong, the dealer can get the right parts, and knows how to install them properly. I paid a lot to have my dealer re-do the upper and lower intakes, but I know they were done right, and I absolutely rely on my car to get to work.

So anyway, compared to my costs, here in the bay area of California, your NJ prices seem similar.
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Old 07-30-2006, 08:33 AM   #16
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Bugsi,

Thanks for the comments.That is helpful. I have to make a decision.
It is a lot of money, but I take good care of the car.
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Old 07-30-2006, 04:06 PM   #17
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I would replace the Compresser, the receiver drier and the Orifice tube, do the work yourself, then take it to a reputable shop and have them run a vacuum and recharge the system. I say replace the receiver drier, because most Compresser companies won't warrantee the compresser without a new drier.

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Old 07-30-2006, 04:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
If you are going to go through the $$$$ of replacing all of those components, and you know the leak is at the compressor.... Would it be worth it to try some interdynamics stop leak for the R134a system to see if it will help stop the compressor leak?

I used some stop leak in the 92 Mitsubishi 6 years ago... I usually go 3 years and then give it a small shot of 134...

Just a thought.. Could save you $$$$ for the next couple of years...
Don't use STOP LEAK!!! they will harm more items and can glog up everything.
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