What may be the signs of a bad crank sensor? - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-06-2009, 12:15 AM   #21
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Try a local salvage yard, you might get lucky. If you can wait, try Ebay. You should be able to find a better price then that.
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Old 03-06-2009, 12:25 AM   #22
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Try a local salvage yard, you might get lucky. If you can wait, try Ebay. You should be able to find a better price then that.
On top of that price, they said 85 dollar core charge! I about crapped my pants. I told the guy behind the counter that I didn't think the core charge of an entire engine was that much. lol They must REALLY want to make sure people return their old ones if they're charging that much for a core exchange.
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Old 03-06-2009, 02:44 AM   #23
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haha, my apologies.
it'* a canadian company, based in B.C.
We started in '74 from two guys, mr Lord and mr Coates, hence the name Lordco.
Check out our website!

Lordco Parts Ltd. - British Columbia'* Source for Auto Parts
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Old 03-06-2009, 07:32 AM   #24
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RSTRUNK.. please type www.car-part.com into your browser address bar. Choose your state or local area and the part. I saw some as low as $35 in Indiana.

I'm a cheap guy..why pay an extra $100 if you don't have any reason to?
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Old 03-06-2009, 12:27 PM   #25
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RSTRUNK.. please type www.car-part.com into your browser address bar. Choose your state or local area and the part. I saw some as low as $35 in Indiana.

I'm a cheap guy..why pay an extra $100 if you don't have any reason to?
Yes, thank you. I did that last night and already sent an email to contact someone about it.

But, here'* the scoop. Shop calls me a little bit ago and they say they still can't get the car to act up. BUT, the new water pump I put on a few weeks ago is still leaking. I don't know if the pump is faulty or if it'* coming out around the gasket but I'll know in a little bit when i go pick up the car and i will ask. I asked how bad is it leaking and he just said "well......... it needs attention". He said since it didn't act up, he can't say for sure ut he thinks it may be possible that the original bad waterpump leaking on the crank sensor caused the problems and now the new one leaking may be still causing it but he said that is only a lead because he can't say for certain because the car didn't give him a reading.

So............ I asked 10 different people and got 10 different answers about putting gasket sealer on the waterpump gasket. I finally was told to put just a tiny bit around the gasket, so I did. The mechanic told me take it off and redo the waterpump, and DON'T use any type of RPV or anything.

So, I'll find out if it'* a bad pump or a bad gasket and go from there but since it'* still leaking a bit, does anyone else agree that, this could be creating my problems?

After hearing that, Bill, are you still pretty certain about the PCM? Advice is always appreciated.
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Old 03-06-2009, 12:42 PM   #26
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All the repair manuals I have here state that you should apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the engine side of the new gasket and the gasket mating surface of the new pump. The key is to keep the layer thin and even and well outside any cooling channel holes.
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Old 03-06-2009, 12:44 PM   #27
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I see nothing wrong with putting a thin layer of RTV. You just don't want it gooping in side the pump.
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Old 03-06-2009, 01:33 PM   #28
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I just got it home.

About the rtv, I put about as thin a layer on both sides of the gasket as a person could put on. Maybe it'* because i put it on both sides? But, I popped the hood and checked and there is a tiny puddle of water on top of the water pump where it COULD be leaking or maybe a tiny amount leaked down to it. I checked the coolant reservoir and if it is leaking it must be very extremely slow because the coolent level looks like it about where it was when i finished getting it filled back up and topping off after replacing the pump. So, if there is a leak, it is minuscule, at best. Or maybe he saw a leak underneath that I am unable to spot from the top right now. I don't know.

Maybe the mechanic was just tired of trying to get it to read a diagnostic and felt he was wasting too much time on it and saw that little puddle of fluid and told me that just to get it out of his hair? What do you guys think?

I was planning on going ahead and redoing the water pump with no RPV and exchanging it for a new one in case the pump is faulty (already confirmed with auto store that I can do it because it'* lifetime warranty) and i ordered a crank position sensor and I think I'll put a new crank sensor on in since I'm tearing it back down anyway.

Do you guys think that is a good place to start and if it continues then go ahead and maybe address the PCM?
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Old 03-06-2009, 01:36 PM   #29
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Check your coolant elbows. Many times people think the water pump is leaking and it'* really the elbows.
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Old 03-06-2009, 01:53 PM   #30
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Check your coolant elbows. Many times people think the water pump is leaking and it'* really the elbows.
Ok, the one above the pump may be the problem. From the top the pump seem pretty good to me and the coolant levels are still in the right place so i don't know what to think.

This brings me back to square one though. Why is my car acting like it is? haha. I don't have a bunch of money to throw at it right now so i have to choose my part wisely. Start with crank sensor them move on to PCM? Start with PCM them move on to crank sensor?

Replace the water pump anyway just in case?
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