What may be the signs of a bad crank sensor? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-05-2009, 08:26 PM   #11
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A crank bolt is a torque to yield bolt so really should be replaced. You should be able to get that at a auto parts store.

MAF cleaner to clean your MAF. Don't touch the wire with anything.

Other then change your fluids, change your filters and plugs, check the plug wires and coils. That'* about it. If anything looks odd, take a picture and let us take a look.
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Old 03-05-2009, 09:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthurs View Post
A crank bolt is a torque to yield bolt so really should be replaced. You should be able to get that at a auto parts store.

MAF cleaner to clean your MAF. Don't touch the wire with anything.

Other then change your fluids, change your filters and plugs, check the plug wires and coils. That'* about it. If anything looks odd, take a picture and let us take a look.
OK. I was wondering about the coil packs. I just put new plugs and wires in it 8 or 9 months ago. Same with the air filter. I keep up with oil changes and fluids.

Is there a write up about cleaning the MAF sensor? I'm not sure exactly where it is, only approximately.

Thanks for the info on the crank bolt.

Would my car act like this if one of the coil packs is bad, though? It sounds like a crank position sensor or as mentioned by someone earlier in this thread, maybe the PCM or PCM connection? I'm lost and apparently, so is the mechanic. haha
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Old 03-05-2009, 09:59 PM   #13
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I knew I did a write up.

https://www.gmforum.com/t278926/

Check your coils. If one is out of whack it can make the engine run bad.
https://www.gmforum.com/t278818/
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Old 03-05-2009, 10:10 PM   #14
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I'd like to suggest skipping the coil test. Check the connector going to the ICM (ignition control module) located under the coils. Otherwise a single bad coil is not going to stall the car.

Personally, I'll say in my opinion and having cured about 5 cars in the 94/95 years with this issue, this is in my opinion only 99% a pcm issue.

I checked and don't have one. Do you know anyone with a 94/95 Park Ave, Bonneville, or LeSabre? You could do a quick swap as a test.

I searched www.car-part.com and there are pcm'* in Indiana as low as $35. I'll also ask a buddy to check this thread..maybe you live close..he'* got a 94 and it'* engine is ripped apart at the moment.

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Old 03-05-2009, 10:46 PM   #15
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ah yes
i was wondering where the pcm is aswell
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Old 03-05-2009, 10:50 PM   #16
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I *think* it'* by the glove box. Bill?
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Old 03-05-2009, 10:59 PM   #17
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1. Take your phillips head screwdriver or 7mm nutdriver and head to the front passenger seat of the car.
2. Under the dash remove the 2-3 screws holding the hushpanel up.
3. Look where the carpet meets the firewall. See the 12"ish wide silver box with the red, white and blue connectors, that'* the pcm. Disconnect the connectors first.
4. Locate the one or two plastic tabs holding the pcm to the holder and slide out.
5. Remove the two screws on the access panel and remove the blue eprom chip.
6. Insert chip into new pcm and plug the new pcm into the connectors with it laying on the floor.
7. Start the car and test your new pcm. If all is well, reinstall it and the hush panel.
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Old 03-05-2009, 11:17 PM   #18
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Good info here. Appreciate it guys.

NAPA quoted me a price of $135 for a new PCM. Should I just say hell with it and buy one and put it in? Then if it still acts up, try the crank sensor? And go down the list as such? I mean, if the shop can't diagnose it?

Remember, the car is still at the shop and the mechanic will try to get it to "act up" again tomorrow so he can get an accurate reading with his diagnostics. If not, it seems like the feeling I'm getting from them is to just take the car home because it isn't acting up for them to test it. The shop has a very good reputation and the guy isn't trying to jip me by selling me stuff I don't need, and he isn't making stuff up just to get my money, so he seems honest. He just can't get an accurate reading if the car doesn't act up so it will show up on the tester. So, he doesn't know what to fix or what to tell me if the car is running good for them.

Problem is, they've been trying to get the car to act up since Tuesday and it won't. Five bucks says he has me come and get it tomorrow and then it will act up on my way home. It'* just the way things work. lol
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Old 03-05-2009, 11:47 PM   #19
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hmmm....
i petition to have gmforum.com a NAPA-FREE ZONE.
NAPA; nincumpoops and pedofile ********!
LORDCO; Lots Of Really Devillishy Cool Operatives

muah hahah
can you tell which one i work at
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Old 03-06-2009, 12:09 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trentthetrent View Post
hmmm....
i petition to have gmforum.com a NAPA-FREE ZONE.
NAPA; nincumpoops and pedofile ********!
LORDCO; Lots Of Really Devillishy Cool Operatives

muah hahah
can you tell which one i work at
haha. What is LORDCO? I don't think we have any around here?
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