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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-27-2006, 01:03 PM   #1
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my car wont start....battery is fine every thing comes on
but when i turn the key to start all i get is one click..

help....
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:12 PM   #2
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Either bad VATS system or dead starter and or starter solenoid. ( or battery terminal/post )

Jump the starter solenoid to see if the starter motors turn, if it does.. see if it keeps running. If it dies right away ( remember car has to be in the on position ) than its probably the VATS system.. If it starts and keeps running, it'* a starter solenoid, if it doesn't do anything.. probably the starter motor.

P.*. Check the battery terminals.. remove them from the battery and clean them, retigten and try ( I"ve had that problem on both 97 and 95 before.. not enough contact or secure contact for the amperage needed to turn the starter motor )..
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:30 PM   #3
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what is vats?
how do i jump start the starter solenoid....
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:34 PM   #4
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Get a friend.. have then turn and hold the key while you hit the starter.

This is classic starter.
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:49 PM   #5
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what is vats??
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:51 PM   #6
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I had the same problem, after jumping the car and letting it run for a few minutes, I shut er' down and she wouldn't start up again. Ended up being the alternator was bad. Figured that out by testing the volts of everything at autozone
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUPRCHRGD
what is vats??
Vats is the security system your car comes with to avoid anyone stealing your car. Theres a little chip in your key and when it is inserted into the ignition, it makes the connection so your car will start. If the vats system is dirty or bad, you wont be able to start your car.
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:58 PM   #8
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Moose..you would have also had a near dead battery in that case.

Whacking the starter...will usually free it up for a start and that way you can (w/o removal) diagnose the issue. Although.the car will not always turn over by hitting the starter...it could be too far gone.
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:59 PM   #9
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VATS= Vehicle Anti Theft System

It read the ohms reading on that lil pellet on your key. If it doesn't have the specified ohms reading, it will not allow the car to start.

There should be 3 prongs on the starter solenoid. With car on.. I can't remember which of the 3 is which.

one is ground
one is full time positive
one is open

If you put a meter on it to find the ground, then you know thats the one you DON'T WANT to touch. Simply then either Run a booster cable from battery positive to screw driver ( carefully ) and jump the open one, or short the open and the positive ( not recommended to be done for long or frequently ) this will engage the solenoid to get power to the starter motor.. BE VERY CAREFUL AS YOU CAN OVERCRANK IF LEFT ON TOO LONG!!

Easiest and safest thing to check first is the battery terminal/cable first. wiggle it.. try again.. if you wiggle it and see the cable turnin on the terminal then it'* loose and not tight enough.. take apart, and clean it.. re-install and try again.

EDIT: Wat I find easiest to check alternator is reading the battery post.. lets say car off I"m reading 12V. After the car runs and idling for bout 5-8 min. or so.. read it again and you should be gettin about 14V. Why I say to wait that 5-8 min is that other phases thats not used frequently is attemptin to charge the battery due to amperage draw from cranking.. after it charges it goes to Maintain phase which is common to wear out and blow a diode due to heat.. ( that and the rear bearings can't handle the heat too well either so they go out next )
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Old 06-27-2006, 02:01 PM   #10
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Actually..Drifter..isn't the easiest thing to check..the "Security" light on the dash?
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