Weird Idle Boost - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-03-2004, 08:56 PM   #11
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Your car took more then it put back in, and it finally caught up to you. Get a battery tonight, before the alt is way overstressed. Fuses etc don't make the drain on it anyless. I'd suggets some thicker main cables, and a nicer battery, maybe a red top even.
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Old 08-03-2004, 09:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
Your car took more then it put back in, and it finally caught up to you. Get a battery tonight, before the alt is way overstressed. Fuses etc don't make the drain on it anyless. I'd suggets some thicker main cables, and a nicer battery, maybe a red top even.
With a big a$$ stereo Id go with a yellow top......they're designed for a higher reserve capacity, and the redtop for higher cranking amps. But still the yellow has something like 750 CCA which is plenty for starting!
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Old 08-03-2004, 09:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
Fuses etc don't make the drain on it anyless.
I know, I just said that to prove nothing shorted badly.

Is this a do-it-yourself kinda project? Any special tools needed? Any special tips? Sites to reference?

Thanks everyone.

Oh, and is there a specific brand/model to go for, or steer clear of?
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Old 08-04-2004, 12:06 AM   #14
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Well I just talked to my friend who works at a garage and he said he can hook me up tomorrow. An Interstate battery, and installed for notn'.
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Old 08-04-2004, 02:20 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonEvilSSEi
Quote:
Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
Your car took more then it put back in, and it finally caught up to you. Get a battery tonight, before the alt is way overstressed. Fuses etc don't make the drain on it anyless. I'd suggets some thicker main cables, and a nicer battery, maybe a red top even.
With a big a$$ stereo Id go with a yellow top......they're designed for a higher reserve capacity, and the redtop for higher cranking amps. But still the yellow has something like 750 CCA which is plenty for starting!
Do not run a Yellow-Top Optima as the primary battery in a car, especially a car known for it'* love of Alternators for lunch. As a second battery behind an isolator to support a system, yes, but as a primary/solo battery NO.

Yellow Tops are DEEP CYCLE batteries, and your Alternator is not designed to handle that type of load It will kill your alternator way before it'* time. Yellow tops are bragging rights for kids with thumpers in the trunk. The trend started when some good installers put in SECONDARY isolated yellow tops, and the kids with the thumpers thought it was cool, but didn't pay enough attention to the well-planned setup.

If you have a system with 2 amps, buy the 160 amp alternator from Domestic Performance, and install an Optima Red top, or any battery as the primary, and a yellow top as a secondary.
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Old 08-04-2004, 02:31 AM   #16
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there is a difference between a deep cyle starting and a deep cycle amrine type battery. Of course optima is a totally different type of battery. Did you know that you can shoot a hole right through an Optima battery then get in your car and crank it right over. no acid los because of the foam suspended electrolyte. I expect my Optima will be good for at least 7-8 years, and I have never tested or seen a bad Optima in the 6 years I have been in the battery bizz, and we (Sears Auto) didnt even start selling them till last year. If you really want to use a battery as a backup only consider a bluetop, but I guess it depends on how you wire it. If you wire it so that it is in sequence with youre fatory battery I would do yellow. If you wire it out of the loop (i.e. on a diesel truck) then blues for you.
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Old 08-04-2004, 02:33 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonEvilSSEi
there is a difference between a deep cyle starting and a deep cycle amrine type battery. Of course optima is a totally different type of battery. Did you know that you can shoot a hole right through an Optima battery then get in your car and crank it right over. no acid los because of the foam suspended electrolyte. I expect my Optima will be good for at least 7-8 years, and I have never tested or seen a bad Optima in the 6 years I have been in the battery bizz, and we (Sears Auto) didnt even start selling them till last year. If you really want to use a battery as a backup only consider a bluetop, but I guess it depends on how you wire it. If you wire it so that it is in sequence with youre fatory battery I would do yellow. If you wire it out of the loop (i.e. on a diesel truck) then blues for you.
Good rundown on batteries. Just remember that any deep cycle battery (starting or marine use) is bad news for a car that you KNOW eats alternators for lunch. Anything that stresses your alternator will shorten it'* life. Put the right battery in place with a quality alternator, and you'll have years of good service. Screw up the combination, and you're asking for trouble.
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Old 08-04-2004, 02:35 AM   #18
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This cars on its second alternator, and still its original battery. (well not as of tomorrow...)

The alternator that'* in there now is a Cadillac one, wish I knew more specifics about it.
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Old 08-04-2004, 07:16 PM   #19
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Well its got a new Interstate Mega-Tron in it. WIth the 75 month warranty and all is well so far.

Oh and it now reads 12.9V car off
and 13.88ish while it'* idling. Sounds better!
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