Water in cylinders - UPDATE - its back on the road - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-20-2007, 11:24 PM   #31
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: East Central Illinois
Posts: 135
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BMWhound is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Go To Autozone, they usually have the Kit for less than $4.... Advance may have it as well..
My Autozone did not have it...either that or the counter person did not know what to look for...but he was the manager LOL. I don't think we have a Carquest...but we do have an Advance. I'll check there - Thanks.
BMWhound is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2007, 11:26 PM   #32
BANNED
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
banned3800 is on a distinguished road
Default

Yes exactly... Use what ever oil you want..LOL... Usually Supertech is decently cheap and I believe is made by one of the larger manufactures and bottles under the Wally name..

You should be fine there.. And yeah... Give it a couple hundred and change to your regular oil and go about your Miles

__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
banned3800 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2007, 11:26 PM   #33
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Saginaw, MI
Posts: 345
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
TheDude is on a distinguished road
Default

Mind you, mine developed the rod knock only 70 miles after the top end was put back together. And I changed my oil TWICE before I even drove the car out of the shop. There was absolutely no warning sign. It started to hesitate a little then started knocking. And I only ran it about 10 minutes during the knock and it did that much damage to my crank.
TheDude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2007, 11:33 PM   #34
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

Dude, some do that, some don't. There'* a good hundred variables. How long was it slowly leaking without your knowledge? How much blowby from loss of compression over time? What were your existing bearing clearances? How much coolant got in the oil? Was it DEX or not?

There'* really no way to know. We all do what'* economical for us, and some make it through long-term, while others don't. Take mos95b for example. He did everything RIGHT. Immediately drained the oil and commenced repairs. What was it? A week later? Boom. it was out of his control.

Many things are happening inside that motor that we can't see or detect. The best we can do is follow the knowledgable advice on this Forum, and pray for the best after that. If luck is good, we BS in the lounge for a year. If luck is bad, we leverage the great experience of the members here to get it done again.

In the long run, we save money. Regardless of the outcome. We're capitalists. Money matters.
willwren is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2007, 11:37 PM   #35
BANNED
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
banned3800 is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDude
Mind you, mine developed the rod knock only 70 miles after the top end was put back together. And I changed my oil TWICE before I even drove the car out of the shop. There was absolutely no warning sign. It started to hesitate a little then started knocking. And I only ran it about 10 minutes during the knock and it did that much damage to my crank.

This is the very reason I preach this about the 3800... And it almost seems proper for me to bring it out here in this thread..

If you have an L36, and it suddenly starts using a little bit of coolant, but you can't find where its going... You have a rupture somewhere... And it needs to be found ASAP...

By the time most people notice they have an issue its too late... The Oil will not look like milk either, the coolant is not going directly into the oil but instead being burned in the combustion process... Over time this contamination of the oil becomes acidic and the oil will also loose its ability to lubricate the bearings... If its bad enough the bearings can become pitted and or become scored... This will be bearing Death... And if you have gotten here, this motor will be finished no matter what you do..

This is also an issue with the 3100'* and 3400'*.... They suffer an intake gasket issue and fail in the exact same way... Its a shame that it happens tho...

But For everyone, Pay real close attention to your Coolant... I almost never have to add anything...

__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
banned3800 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2007, 12:41 AM   #36
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: East Central Illinois
Posts: 135
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BMWhound is on a distinguished road
Default pics of the LIM pitting

I dont think this is anything to worry about, but this is why you guys are the experts and I am a humble servant

here'* the pics




BTW the pitting seems to be less than 64th of an inch and it'* only that one close up shot I took on the one side. The otherside really almost flawless to me. I've cleaned the mating surface on the heads, but I can't seem to get rid of the "impressions" of the old gasket. Is that normal ? Ok ? I've pretty much burned up a battery in the ol' cordless trying to get it as clean as possible. It'* clean, but the impressions wont go away.

Thanks again fellas
http://www.stingrayboats.com/MySting...0/ppuser/11566
BMWhound is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2007, 01:10 AM   #37
Senior Member
Posts like a Corvette
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,451
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
agrazela is on a distinguished road
Default Re: pics of the LIM pitting

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWhound
I dont think this is anything to worry about...
I am far from an expert, but I am a very cautious person, and after doing LIM gaskets on four different 3800'*, and having bought and sold numerous LIM'* for projects, I would not use that LIM in that condition.

MAYBE if you were to skimcoat that pitted area with some epoxy then sand it or something...or better yet, get it machined at a shop.
agrazela is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2007, 01:20 AM   #38
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: East Central Illinois
Posts: 135
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BMWhound is on a distinguished road
Default Re: pics of the LIM pitting

Quote:
Originally Posted by agrazela
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWhound
I dont think this is anything to worry about...
MAYBE if you were to skimcoat that pitted area with some epoxy then sand it or something...or better yet, get it machined at a shop.
If I took it to a machine shop, what is typically done...do they fill it in and machine it back down to specs, or do they simply grind it down? If that happens, do I need to get a different gasket set to make up the difference in thickness ?

tia.
BMWhound is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2007, 01:36 AM   #39
Senior Member
Posts like a Camaro
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Chambersburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 882
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
putertopia is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Quote:
Originally Posted by agrazela
Quote:
Originally Posted by putertopia
Not to steal the thread here or anything.. but are the felpro second design gaskets (MS958091) any good? I ended up buying it from rock auto... so I hope it flies lol.
Those are still nylon gaskets, so personally I'd return (or re-sell) them and get aluminums.
Again, there'* some debate on this issue, but my personal opinion based on my experience is that the nylon gaskets are fine as long as you lose the DEX.
Yeah... DEX will be taken away. I think I'll just keep with the nylon gaskets then.
putertopia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2007, 03:27 AM   #40
Senior Member
Posts like a Camaro
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 857
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bugsi is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Dude, some do that, some don't. There'* a good hundred variables. <SNIP> There'* really no way to know. We all do what'* economical for us, and some make it through long-term, while others don't. <SNIP> The best we can do is follow the knowledgeable advice on this Forum, and pray for the best after that. If luck is good, we BS in the lounge for a year. If luck is bad, we leverage the great experience of the members here to get it done again.

In the long run, we save money. Regardless of the outcome. We're capitalists. Money matters.
Ditto on all of this. If your oil is drained and you're dealing with the top end, you might as well just finish the top end, refill with oil, and drive it, then change it again in a hundred or so. If you have the ability and time and equipment to drop the pan, feel free to go for it, but like Willwren said, there'* so many variables that you just can't know if your bottom end is going to let go or not. People who let their car sit for months after a hydrolock can pretty much bank on a rotted lower end, but if you were driving your car regularly and deal with the failure as soon as you find out about it, you'll stand a better chance of avoiding a lower end failure. But you just can't know.

And for me, mine showed itself as an overheat on a drive home from work, in December 2005, the same week I got hit by a layoff at work. With a baby and needing my car back-in-action as soon as possible for job-hunting, I just took the car to my dealer and paid them to do the intakes. So while I didn't save the money, I still had the power of all the knowledge from these forums, so I could make sure the job was done right, without getting (too) ripped-off. I was lucky, and didn't suffer a lower-end failure, so I can apparently BS about it in the lounge now!

You can't know if you'll suffer a lower-end failure or not, so don't stress yourself out. Deal with the intakes, replace your oil, and change it again in a hundred or so miles. Hope to see you BS'ing in the lounge!
Bugsi is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Water, Water. Water !!!! da_grey_goose_95 Detailing & Appearance 6 02-19-2010 12:36 PM
its been a long road......83 pics T3=death 1993 SLE Your Ride: GM Pictures & Videos 14 10-03-2005 12:25 AM
oil in cylinders?? RPSSEI 1992-1999 4 04-05-2005 03:38 AM
Need part # confirmation for brake shoes and wheel cylinders toxictelevision 1992-1999 2 04-16-2004 07:08 PM
Need to find new brake shoes and wheel cylinders for rear.. toxictelevision 1992-1999 1 04-15-2004 01:51 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:24 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.