Water in cylinders - UPDATE - its back on the road
#31
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
Go To Autozone, they usually have the Kit for less than $4.... Advance may have it as well..
#32
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Yes exactly... Use what ever oil you want..LOL... Usually Supertech is decently cheap and I believe is made by one of the larger manufactures and bottles under the Wally name..
You should be fine there.. And yeah... Give it a couple hundred and change to your regular oil and go about your Miles
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You should be fine there.. And yeah... Give it a couple hundred and change to your regular oil and go about your Miles
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#33
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Mind you, mine developed the rod knock only 70 miles after the top end was put back together. And I changed my oil TWICE before I even drove the car out of the shop. There was absolutely no warning sign. It started to hesitate a little then started knocking. And I only ran it about 10 minutes during the knock and it did that much damage to my crank.
#34
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Dude, some do that, some don't. There'* a good hundred variables. How long was it slowly leaking without your knowledge? How much blowby from loss of compression over time? What were your existing bearing clearances? How much coolant got in the oil? Was it DEX or not?
There'* really no way to know. We all do what'* economical for us, and some make it through long-term, while others don't. Take mos95b for example. He did everything RIGHT. Immediately drained the oil and commenced repairs. What was it? A week later? Boom. it was out of his control.
Many things are happening inside that motor that we can't see or detect. The best we can do is follow the knowledgable advice on this Forum, and pray for the best after that. If luck is good, we BS in the lounge for a year. If luck is bad, we leverage the great experience of the members here to get it done again.
In the long run, we save money. Regardless of the outcome. We're capitalists. Money matters.
There'* really no way to know. We all do what'* economical for us, and some make it through long-term, while others don't. Take mos95b for example. He did everything RIGHT. Immediately drained the oil and commenced repairs. What was it? A week later? Boom. it was out of his control.
Many things are happening inside that motor that we can't see or detect. The best we can do is follow the knowledgable advice on this Forum, and pray for the best after that. If luck is good, we BS in the lounge for a year. If luck is bad, we leverage the great experience of the members here to get it done again.
In the long run, we save money. Regardless of the outcome. We're capitalists. Money matters.
#35
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Originally Posted by TheDude
Mind you, mine developed the rod knock only 70 miles after the top end was put back together. And I changed my oil TWICE before I even drove the car out of the shop. There was absolutely no warning sign. It started to hesitate a little then started knocking. And I only ran it about 10 minutes during the knock and it did that much damage to my crank.
This is the very reason I preach this about the 3800... And it almost seems proper for me to bring it out here in this thread..
If you have an L36, and it suddenly starts using a little bit of coolant, but you can't find where its going... You have a rupture somewhere... And it needs to be found ASAP...
By the time most people notice they have an issue its too late... The Oil will not look like milk either, the coolant is not going directly into the oil but instead being burned in the combustion process... Over time this contamination of the oil becomes acidic and the oil will also loose its ability to lubricate the bearings... If its bad enough the bearings can become pitted and or become scored... This will be bearing Death... And if you have gotten here, this motor will be finished no matter what you do..
This is also an issue with the 3100'* and 3400'*.... They suffer an intake gasket issue and fail in the exact same way... Its a shame that it happens tho...
But For everyone, Pay real close attention to your Coolant... I almost never have to add anything...
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#36
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pics of the LIM pitting
I dont think this is anything to worry about, but this is why you guys are the experts and I am a humble servant
here'* the pics
BTW the pitting seems to be less than 64th of an inch and it'* only that one close up shot I took on the one side. The otherside really almost flawless to me. I've cleaned the mating surface on the heads, but I can't seem to get rid of the "impressions" of the old gasket. Is that normal ? Ok ? I've pretty much burned up a battery in the ol' cordless trying to get it as clean as possible. It'* clean, but the impressions wont go away.
Thanks again fellas
http://www.stingrayboats.com/MySting...0/ppuser/11566
here'* the pics
BTW the pitting seems to be less than 64th of an inch and it'* only that one close up shot I took on the one side. The otherside really almost flawless to me. I've cleaned the mating surface on the heads, but I can't seem to get rid of the "impressions" of the old gasket. Is that normal ? Ok ? I've pretty much burned up a battery in the ol' cordless trying to get it as clean as possible. It'* clean, but the impressions wont go away.
Thanks again fellas
http://www.stingrayboats.com/MySting...0/ppuser/11566
#37
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Re: pics of the LIM pitting
Originally Posted by BMWhound
I dont think this is anything to worry about...
MAYBE if you were to skimcoat that pitted area with some epoxy then sand it or something...or better yet, get it machined at a shop.
#38
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Re: pics of the LIM pitting
Originally Posted by agrazela
Originally Posted by BMWhound
I dont think this is anything to worry about...
tia.
#39
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Originally Posted by willwren
Originally Posted by agrazela
Originally Posted by putertopia
Not to steal the thread here or anything.. but are the felpro second design gaskets (MS958091) any good? I ended up buying it from rock auto... so I hope it flies lol.
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Originally Posted by willwren
Dude, some do that, some don't. There'* a good hundred variables. <SNIP> There'* really no way to know. We all do what'* economical for us, and some make it through long-term, while others don't. <SNIP> The best we can do is follow the knowledgeable advice on this Forum, and pray for the best after that. If luck is good, we BS in the lounge for a year. If luck is bad, we leverage the great experience of the members here to get it done again.
In the long run, we save money. Regardless of the outcome. We're capitalists. Money matters.
In the long run, we save money. Regardless of the outcome. We're capitalists. Money matters.
And for me, mine showed itself as an overheat on a drive home from work, in December 2005, the same week I got hit by a layoff at work. With a baby and needing my car back-in-action as soon as possible for job-hunting, I just took the car to my dealer and paid them to do the intakes. So while I didn't save the money, I still had the power of all the knowledge from these forums, so I could make sure the job was done right, without getting (too) ripped-off. I was lucky, and didn't suffer a lower-end failure, so I can apparently BS about it in the lounge now!
You can't know if you'll suffer a lower-end failure or not, so don't stress yourself out. Deal with the intakes, replace your oil, and change it again in a hundred or so miles. Hope to see you BS'ing in the lounge!