Two seperate problems, or are they related? 1992 SSEI - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-07-2005, 11:53 AM   #11
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 3,066
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

If the leak is engine oil, you are losing a lot, and it'* all of a sudden, I would suspect something like a bad oil sending unit. This would put oil on the ground on the passenger rear side of the engine. Check to make sure your oil filter is tight and not leaking, too. That'* in the same area and really cheap to fix.

When gaskets fail, they tend to fail slowly, not suddenly. Lip seals (used on the ends of the crankshaft) can fail suddenly, even catastrophically, but they usually start slow and build. If the oil is at either end of the engine, these are suspect - and not easy or cheap to change. A rear crank seal will send oil out at the bottom of the joint between the engine and the transaxle. If this is bad, either the trans or the engine has to come out to change it.

Related? If the leak is at the rear crankshaft seal (rear main bearing) it may be. Here is a plausible scenario. Say that rear seal had gotten really brittle, but was still sealing OK. Now your starter is going south and the drive is getting really sloppy and jams the flex plate in such a way that it puts a little extra push on the seal and cracks it. That crack will put out a lot of oil in a hurry, most obvious when the engine is running.

Hope it is the sender - $30 and 10 min. and you're good to go.
bill buttermore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2005, 02:06 PM   #12
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 23
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
albertaboy is on a distinguished road
Default

I had to take it to Canadian Tire (only place that had room on a long weekend Friday) and they diagnosed a starter, and sender. $460 including tax and labor seem steep?
albertaboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2005, 03:31 PM   #13
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

The starter itself is expensive.. it'* only a 1/2 hour job and a sender..depending on which one is probably not too expensive..might be a tough install...might be easy.
BillBoost37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2005, 04:11 PM   #14
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 3,066
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

Yes, it does seem steep. You should be able to find the starter for $<200, (an ultima at O'Reilly'* is $145 with a lifetime warranty) and the sender for about $35, so that'* a lotta labor. Replacing the sender is simple < 1/4 hr. Replacing the starter shold take no more than 3/4hr. So by my figgurin' , that'* more than $250/hr for the labor. Nice work if you can get it. Will they be serving wine and cheese while you watch the dancing girls in the customer waiting area?

Now, if they are providing you with gen-yoo-wine GM AC Delco parts, the quote might be closer to fair. But, even then, the dealer will wholesale genuine parts to most shops for about 50% of list price.

I had a local shop rebuild the starter for my '92 SSEi; they charged about $70.
bill buttermore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2005, 05:04 PM   #15
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 23
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
albertaboy is on a distinguished road
Default

So...I'm going to try to do it myself this afternoon on the driveway...

Truthfully, I have no idea what I'm doing, but am feeling brave.

I don't even know where the sender goes, and I couldn't point out the starter to save my life...any help would be greatly appreciated.
albertaboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2005, 06:03 PM   #16
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Markham, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 239
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
faisalmali is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Yes, it does seem steep. You should be able to find the starter for $<200, (an ultima at O'Reilly'* is $145 with a lifetime warranty) and the sender for about $35, so that'* a lotta labor. Replacing the sender is simple < 1/4 hr. Replacing the starter shold take no more than 3/4hr. So by my figgurin' , that'* more than $250/hr for the labor. Nice work if you can get it. Will they be serving wine and cheese while you watch the dancing girls in the customer waiting area?

Now, if they are providing you with gen-yoo-wine GM AC Delco parts, the quote might be closer to fair. But, even then, the dealer will wholesale genuine parts to most shops for about 50% of list price.

I had a local shop rebuild the starter for my '92 SSEi; they charged about $70.


He'* a Canuck!

Yes, I do believe Canadian Tire is a rip off. I have never done a starter or an oil sender myself, but neither is probably that difficult. I can probably get a rebuilt starter from a local rebuilder for about $100. My last alternator was about that much, 5 years ago.

See if you find a local, trusted starter shop.
faisalmali is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2005, 06:27 PM   #17
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

In the front..pull the big plastic shield underneath.. look up right next to tranny..on top of frame.. there'* the starter..

What sender are you replacing ? Oil pressure? Oil level?
BillBoost37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2005, 12:57 PM   #18
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 3,066
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

OK, this is from memory, so I might have forgotten some stuff.

Remove the splash shield that'* attached to the front crossmember under the front of the car. Most of the fasteners will be 10mm.
Remove the negative battery cable and push it away so it can't touch the battery.
Remove the plastic cover (*) from the bottom of the bell housing and up around the starter (More 10mm bolts - wiggle and twist to get it out)
Unbolt the electrical connectors on the starter
Remove the two vertical bolts that hold the starter up (15 mm?)
Drop the starter out (May have to twist and turn a bit.)
Make careful note of any shims
Clean the area where the starter contacts the engine/bellhousing
Install the new starter with the same thickness of shims you removed.
Re-do the electrical connections.
If the starter binds, or makes a loud noise, add shims until normal.
Re-install the splash shield(*)

The oil sender (if that'* the one) takes an oil sender socket. Go buy one for $6
Unplug the electrical connector from the leaking sender.
Unscrew the old sender
Srew in the new one and tighten it to ____ft-lb (check techinfo)
Attach electrical connector.

Have a beer or two with the $390 you saved.
bill buttermore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2005, 01:11 PM   #19
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 34
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
SLO92SE is on a distinguished road
Default

sounds stupid i know but, check the oil filter. mine came loose a while back and was leaking like a SOB. never seen one come loose before
SLO92SE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2005, 12:53 AM   #20
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 23
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
albertaboy is on a distinguished road
Default

Thank you all for the help. I used Bill'* step by step guide (freakishly accurate from memory) and the job was a breeze.
albertaboy is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
URGENT M90 Gen3 will not seperate. GonneVille Forced Induction 18 04-01-2008 09:30 PM
Superchips says they cant help me or is it they WONT BonEvilSSEi General GM Chat 27 07-28-2004 12:57 AM
is the GAIN control a seperate amp? phoenix_flame220 1987-1991 6 06-08-2004 02:17 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:06 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.