Trunk Button - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-13-2005, 08:30 PM   #31
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ok weird finding while i was testing

I tested the button which worked.
I tested the hot wire which has power

so i put the button back on and pushed it and the trunk popped

so i played with it for a while and found a pattern

i can pop the trunk twice then it doesnt work, but if i go and open it with the key and close it, it will work for 2 more times the i have to do the same thing again..

whats going on?
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Old 04-13-2005, 08:44 PM   #32
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With the trunk OPEN, does it actuate every time?
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Old 04-13-2005, 08:47 PM   #33
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if it pops open it will but if it wont open and i open it with the key it wont
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Old 04-13-2005, 08:57 PM   #34
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????

You're saying that if you open it with the key, then go push the button, it won't actuate? Even with the ignition key ON?

And if you pop it with the button, it will continue to actuate?
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Old 04-13-2005, 10:48 PM   #35
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im saying that the times it opens with the button it with actuate

The times it wont open with button i will go open it with the key and then push the button and nothing happens

The ignition is on all the time
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Old 04-14-2005, 11:38 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viper8907
im saying that the times it opens with the button it with actuate

The times it wont open with button i will go open it with the key and then push the button and nothing happens
I'm thinking there is something a little loosey-goosey with the actuator and/or its wiring connection. I think its own motion, during those times when it actually works, may be jiggling the connection loose, and possibly manual operation with the key and/or slamming the trunk lid closed will eventually make the connection again, at least temporarily.

Another longshot possibility is that the wires to or from the door-mounted release button have broken where they jump the door gap, but occasionally make contact again when the door is opened or closed. While you're testing this, I would leave the door in one position, either open or closed with the window down, so you can focus better on one area of the car when testing.

(Have you got a remote Keyless Entry transmitter for the car? If so, does the trunk release act any differently if you zap it with the remote?)
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Old 04-14-2005, 12:26 PM   #37
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i will try that, and check the trunk for loose connections

and no i dont have remote keyless entry...thats my next project
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Old 04-14-2005, 12:45 PM   #38
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Another thought. You mention when it'* cold it works great, then after 3 or 4 tries it won't work if closed. However if open it'* consistently working fine.

Check for goop, gunk and glop. It'* possible when cold it has plenty of pull to open, however once you start laying on it it'* getting stuck and won't work. Only thing that makes me thing about the booger theory is that it works fine when already open...added pressure of the actual lock rod it holds onto is causing it not to work.

These soloniods if I'm correct is same as pinball machine... simple coil of wire with a metal rod in it that gets pulled in by the magentic draw when energized. Therefore something is keeping the metal from getting pulled in...coil is a coil...works or doesn't usually. So there'* the gummed up factor.

Look for crap in it and clean it up if possible.
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Old 04-14-2005, 01:07 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viper8907
and no i dont have remote keyless entry...thats my next project
(This thread has gone on for so long that I've forgotten where we started, so bear with me here... )

Just to clarify: you know for sure that you don't have Keyless Entry, or are you just missing the transmitters? If you find option code AU0 in the RPO code sticker in your trunk, you've got Keyless Entry.

If you've got an SSE or an SSEi, I would say you almost certainly have it (though in that case you may not find the AU0 code).
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Old 04-14-2005, 01:34 PM   #40
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Lube the actuator and latch assembly with a light oil or grease. NOT WD-40. WD-40 is a water displacing solvent, not a lubricant.

Use WD-40 on the electrical connections at the switch and actuator.

You have an electrical or mechanical intermittent/bind. I had the mechanical, and the actuator wouldn't work. I lubed things up, and slightly adjusted the latch mechanism in the trunk lid, and have had no problems since.
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