Trunk Button - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-11-2005, 06:17 PM   #11
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ok there was no sound from under the dash, i was going to removed door panel but im not sure how to do it, can anyone point me in the right direction? i found one other post that decribed it but it was for a 97 so i dont know if its different than a 92

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Old 04-11-2005, 06:49 PM   #12
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forget about removing the door panel

I just pryed on the button and it popped out, now i cant find a tester so i tried a little christmas light bulb didnt light up but i dont know if it would even if there was power so im gonna find a tester..i think we have one somewhere
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Old 04-11-2005, 08:42 PM   #13
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The christmas bulb would need house voltage to light, the car has much much less. $2 radioshack and you are all set.
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Old 04-11-2005, 10:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBost37
The christmas bulb would need house voltage to light, the car has much much less. $2 radioshack and you are all set.
Well, if we're talking the push-in mini-lights, those from a 10-bulb set will be 12-volts; those from a larger set will be anywhere from 1.5V to 3.5V. However, I wouldn't recommend using those for anything, because when they burn out, an internal shunt shorts the bulb so that the rest of the string will stay lit, probably _not_ the sort of thing you want to see in a test light.

All that aside, get yourself an inexpensive test meter; it'll have a million and one uses...
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Old 04-11-2005, 10:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
remember the car has to be on or running and in park for the button to work on the door, anything else the button will not work
Off Topic= Is there a certain year range that the car'* key has to be on to pop the trunk from the driver'* door?


On Topic.

If you need a button...I can get one....I'm going to the local U-Pull yard again tommorow to get a new bumper for my car. I can pick it up for you if you'd like?
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Old 04-11-2005, 10:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakevilleSSEi
Off Topic= Is there a certain year range that the car'* key has to be on to pop the trunk from the driver'* door?
You mean, what years of car require you to have the key in the ignition? That'* hard to pin down, but usually you must at least have the key turned to the Accessory position; on some (like ours) you must have the ignition on in the Run position. Older cars that had the trunk release button inside the locking glove compartment sometimes didn't require the key at all; the button would be hot at all times since it was (in theory) inside a locking glovebox.

For the '93 and similar years, the transmission must be in Park and the key must be in the Run position. After engine shutdown, you can also pop the trunk while the Retained Accessory Power is active, for 10 minutes or until somebody opens a door, whichever comes first.
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Old 04-11-2005, 10:55 PM   #17
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95 SSEi is hot all the time. No key Just press me and I'll open up.
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Old 04-11-2005, 10:58 PM   #18
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Must be in park or neutral though first.

Found that out the hard way one night.
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Old 04-11-2005, 10:59 PM   #19
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BRB...going to test that last one
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Old 04-11-2005, 11:03 PM   #20
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So what if I wanna pop the trunk while someones behind the wheel to toss a body inside... that'* not a quick getaway!

Confirmed. Car off in P or N trunk opens. Car on in P or N trunk opens. Anything else...you guessed it...Car too smart
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