Moderator: Please feel free to move this if I posted in the wrong section. I'm still learning my way around the site.

Hi Group.

Was in a bit of a hurry to get the tranny separated from the motor in my '97SE, and didn't have enough 1/2" extensions to get at the backward bolt holding the engine/tranny together. Rummaged through my scrap steel pile and came up with a 48" piece of 1/2" reinforcing rod. Cut it to 42" and ground one end "roughly" square enough to fit into the rear end of a 1/2" socket.

I had 2 18mm 6-point deep sockets, so I decided to sacrifice one of them. Inserted the square end of the rod into the rear of the socket, lined it up as true as I could, and welded same. For the drive end, I sacrificed a 21/32 12-point socket...(in 20 years of owning this set, I've never even had this one even off the holder!). Inserted the rod into the socket end, lined it up, and welded away.

Voila!! Instant (and permanent!) backwards bolt remover! Not Snap-On or Proto pretty, and I doubt the patent office will beat a path to my door, but it sure worked well for its' intended use... 30 seconds after I inserted my "extension" through the wheel well and started ratcheting, I had the bolt in my hand.

Many thanks to the members of this site for all the instructions and photos they have provided... it makes repairing/replacing/overhauling SO much easier, My OEM & Haynes manuals are fine as far as they go, but nothing like learning from the shadetree experts!

"Dave'* Instant Backward Bolt Remover" is free to loan to anyone in the London-Woodstock-Stratford Ontario area if they require it and want to pick it up.

FWIW. Regards. Dave




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That'* awesome. I wish I had a welder lying around cause that would have been much easier than my 8 miles of extensions.

That'* ingenuity.

Well done.

I like it! Also, for those of us without welder and skill, do you suppose JB Weld would work as well?

I have a welder that I picked up on a whim, its untested and I have no clue where to start

so i see im not the only that was taking the backwards bolt off i did it whit 2 x20 inches extension but yours is good to. A welder and some ingenuity is never in trouble .

Hi Group.

Thanks for the kudos, guys. As my grandmother used to say, "One Uses What One Hases".

Engine is now out. Next step is to transfer all the external parts to the new engine. I decided it was easier in my case to simply unplug the wiring harness from the dash and the computer and lift it out complete... It will be easier for me to hook up everything once it is out in the open, as opposed to afterwards when it is back in the car. You'll notice I left all the accessories on (Including the air conditioning compressor, since there was no freon in the system anyway). Again, simply because it'* much easier to transfer out in the open...

As has been posted before, there is ample room in the engine compartment to remove the engine after it has been separated from the transmission. (Thanks, Backwards Bolt Remover!) Used a one-ton hoist to lift it straight up after removing the hood. One thing I will note: Most, if not all, of the bolts that I wrenched were liberally soaked in penetrating oil for a day or two before I started wrenching on them... made a world of difference, and did not strip/break/render useless ANY of the bolts removed..even the exhaust manifold nuts gave way with only modest torque...

The replacement engine already included the heads, lower intake manifold, oil pan, & water pump, and was only missing the Upper Intake Manifold & Valve Covers. (sort of a more-than-a-short-block-but-less-than-a-long-block!) This engine was purchased for $900 CDN, (+ a 100 mile trip to pick it up) because the previous owner had been told it would fit his Chevy S10... He evidently didn't check to see the "3800 Series 2" stamped in the block..Block number from the new engine matches my old engine.. (24506029)..

If there'* anything I should be aware of in transferring the old parts to the new engine, please jump in with both feet.. Suggestions/criticisms welcome & appreciated!

Also, is it worthwhile repairing the old engine as opposed to selling as-is to an engine rebuilder? I believe the main bearings are toast, but will know more when I start to tear it down later on...

Will post as things progress..

FWIW. Regards. Dave

Old & New Engine Ready for Transfer of Parts..


Old Engine With All the Goodies Still Attached...
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Side View


Rear Quarter View


Front Quarter View


New Engine As Purchased

oh yes while youre there change those lower intake gasket in a small job now for you and its part of the maitenance to do on a L36

quote "oh yes while youre there change those lower intake gasket in a small job now for you and its part of the maitenance to do on a L36"


Does the LIM gasket have to be changed on a new engine?

If so, is there a recommended brand/type to use?

Thanks. Regards.

Dave

yes you better mine where very bad and my car is a 1998 but whit very low milage but the gasket where almost leaking .as for gasket they say here the alumium gm is the best

that what mine look like





and i saw some worst than that

The recommendation is new GM aluminum frame gaskets.

BTW..to get better access to them.. you can move the blocks out from under. Our motors sit upright nicely on their oil pans.

My suggestion would also be to consider a new APN upper intake since it may be toast or close to it.