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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

View Poll Results: Rebuild whole trans, or just the valve body?
Whole Trans 20 60.61%
Valve body only 7 21.21%
Are you nuts? Take it to a shop! 6 18.18%
Voters: 33. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 07-07-2006, 02:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Have you considered the Sonnax kit?

http://www.thesurecure.com/parts/parts/SC-4T60-E.htm
I had, and I was pretty interested in it... unfortunately, I just don't have the time to get in the parts I really wanted to use... I need to get my car back in to working order, and I need a spare set of hands to do it. The only time I can get spare hands are on weekends, and I don't want to be doing this next weekend, 48 hours before I have to go back to work. That kind of limited the timeframe, giving me about 48 hours after returning home from vacation to get all my parts together :(

In other news, I was talking to someone from the Warren transmission plant (they make the t65 and formerly the t60), and they think the t65 valve body might be compatible... I'll need to check into that in more detail when I get back to work. If they are compatible, it would be a great thing, as in 99 they improved the design and strengthened up the TCC valve area, which should make it last a lot longer. It would also make it a lot easier to get replacement parts, as the T60 VB is on short supply (though you can still buy the whole trans from GM... those are stocked up the wazoo). But, to this point, it'* pure conjecture. I'll look at the prints when I get back to work in 10 days and give an update on that.

And now it'* official - this weekend I'm going to focus on the valve body, and replace my filter. The rest will be left until it dies, as it'* all working great right now, and I don't have time to get the parts that I really want.

As for the torque convertor, I gave it a good amount of thought, and decided it should be replaced. Until I found out I can't get one for several days, and again, I'd have to go through a dealer, who wants to charge some 300 bucks for it. So, out of lack of other options, I'll be using the old torque convertor. Worst case scenario is that the clutch is blown in the TC, and it needs to be replaced... but I don't think it'* blown. The fact that it still grabs strong enough to lurch the car around the way it does makes me think that it'll work just fine, it just needs the fluid there to back it up when it tries to lock.

Procedure is set to start tomorrow morning (need to pick up an engine hoist this afternoon), and we'll go from there. Many pics will follow...
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Old 07-07-2006, 03:05 PM   #12
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Are you taking the engine/trans out the top or holding the engine to drop the subframe and try to get at it that way?
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Old 07-07-2006, 03:10 PM   #13
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Right now the plan is to take the engine/trans out the top, as I don't think I have adequate means of pulling it out the bottom safely. If there are any suggestions from people who have tried this before, please, let me know how it went for you, as I'd like to keep this as painless as possible...
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Old 07-07-2006, 03:12 PM   #14
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I've heard on some cars of putting a brace (rentable) on the engine and lowering the trans/subframe enough to do the work w/o pulling it totally out. However..to me that'* a PITA vs. pulling out the top and not needing an alignment.
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Old 07-07-2006, 03:23 PM   #15
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I had to replace the transmission on my old 87 Bonnie. I pulled it out the top, attached to the engine, all as one unit.

It wasn't that bad of a job. A solid weekend is all that it took me and my father-in-law.
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Old 07-07-2006, 03:34 PM   #16
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Having pulled a couple motors out this year.. I've got the motor swap down to a around 8 hours with breaks.

Taking the trans would be about equal for time being that you pull axles instead of unbolt trans.
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Old 07-07-2006, 04:32 PM   #17
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Sorry to get off track, but does anyone have instruction for removing the valve body? And what is exactly involved? I'm willing to be a pig and try this myself.
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Old 07-07-2006, 05:07 PM   #18
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I'll have instructions up after I'm done with it. The short version is pull the transmission, pull the side pan, disconnect electrical connections to valve body (it contains all of the shifting solenoids), remove valve body. During removal, do *not* loose the 10 checkballs that are going to fall in random locations.

Installation is reverse, making sure the check balls are returned to the proper location.

That small explanation will likely be a full day + of work...
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Old 07-07-2006, 11:24 PM   #19
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Matt-

It'* great to see you diving into this job. I'm sure that of anybody in this club, you've got the knowledge and resources to get this job done properly. I will be eagerly awaiting your pictures and results, as I might be able to save a bunch of money if your procedure is successful. Thanks for being the first to try this DIY!
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Old 07-07-2006, 11:27 PM   #20
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well I'm glad to do it

It'* good to be back... I've missed the BC. hopefully things will slow down enough that I can spend more time here than I have for the past several months...
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