Yay! It'* ordered!

I miss my whine. :(

Well, I think the timing cover is a loss. My dad tried every way possible to get that stuck screw for the oil pump cover, it just won't come out!

Anyone got one I can buy? I believe any 92-95 L67 or 92-94 L27 cover will work, unless the 92 has differences.

EDIT! Scratch what I said above. I tried a last chance thing. I notched the bolt head out with a flathead screwdriver, and out the screw came!

Yay! Sometimes when you have nothing to lose, things finally go your way.

Ok, my parts are due to be here tomorrow, and I just need to ask a few questions before I proceed to put everything back together.

1. Do I need to use any gasket sealer on any of the gaskets I am putting on? (Timing cover, oil filter adapter, water pump?)

2. What bolts absolutely need thread locker? And what kind should I get, red or blue?

3. Do I just pack the oil pump with vaseline, or can I do the oil filter adaptor also?

Anything else I need to know before reassembling? TIA!

Others may do it differently, but I put a thin skin of rtv silicone on both sides of the water pump gasket. The others I install dry.

None of them. But, if you do use it, use blue. For the four bigger water pump bolts, apply thread sealant.

Just the pump.

The 2 times I've had my oil pump apart, I didn't pack it. I did however make sure there was a good oil "film" on the rotating parts before I put it back together. And then I cranked the engine for several seconds with the injectors unplugged to try to circulate some oil before actually letting it start. Worked for me, maybe I got lucky?

Unless the engine is gonna sit for a long time, I do the same thing. After installing the cover, (pump) I feed 50 or 70 weight motor oil into the pump while rotating the crank slowly to prime the pump with a thick film of oil. This has worked okay for me too, as long as the engine will be started within a few days.

If you truly want to minimize wear (especially important in a rebuilt engine) you can unplug the ICM connector to eliminate spark and injectors, then turn the motor with a big drill. I rent a heavy 1/2" drill from the local rental shop for a few dollars and use a cut down 1/2" drive extension to chuck the socket for the crank pulley bolt through the RF wheel well. This allows you to turn the engine for minutes to circulate oil through the system and even begin to pump up the lifters without getting the starter overworked. If you do use your starter, go easy - you can get it too hot and damage it by running it too long at one time.

And make sure you have the plugs out of the head when doing this...no sense in making the work harder on yourself or the tool you use

Thanks, I should have mentioned it.

Thanks guys...


I am hoping my parts come today, so I can at least get the timing chain put back on. I am still waiting on a PM from someone that has a oil pump cover bolt for me, only thing holding me back. I will probably just pack the pump with vaseline, dump some cheap Dollar store oil in it, put a fram filter on, crank for 5 seconds at a time for probably 5 times, hook the ICM back up, start it and let it run for about 20 mins, and drain the cheap oil and put the good oil and Wix filter on. I can't wait to hear my car run again, hopefully smoother with the proper idle.