Just a quick question while I am in the house.... is the HB bolt reverse-threaded, or standard lefty-loosey? We have been trying for 20 mins, and we CANNOT get it loose.

It is NOT reverse thread. Sometimes you need a LOT of torque to pop them loose.

Standard thread. I'm looking for a picture to post.

In case you haven't gotten it undone yet, I copied this from an earlier post:

You don't need air tools or other fancy stuff to tighten or loosen these big bolts. With the car jacked up and supported as others have described, remove the flywheel cover and slip a big phillips screwdriver through one of the holes in the flex plate. Turn the engine one way or the other until the shaft of the screwdriver jams against something solid. Don't let the screwdriver jam against anything that will break and keep the shaft perpendicular to the flex plate. That will hold the engine in place while you loosen or tighten the crank pulley bolt. Outside the fender, set up a jackstand to support a long 1/2" drive extension near the end where the handle will attach. A breaker bar is best here but a stout flex handle MAY not break if you are lucky. You may have to block the jackstand up to get it high enough. Make sure the socket is square and all the way on the bolt head. A six-point socket is best. Slip a cheater bar over the handle and apply torque by standing on the cheater. Torque = your weight in pounds x distance in feet from the center of the extension (axis of the bolt). So, if you weigh 150 lbs, stand twelve inches out on the bar and you are applying 150 ft-lbs of torque. Stand twenty four inches out from where the handle attaches to the extension and you are applying 300 ft-lbs, etc. To get a correct torque application, you must balance yourself on the lever arm and not lean on the car for support. The setup looks something like this:

That''* the one is was looking for - thanks Bill.

Ha, I should have came back in... I got it snapped loose 5 minutes after I posted. It took some whacks, but I got it, got the balancer off, and now the timing cover is ready to come off, got all the bolts out, including the ones on the oil pan, and it just won't budge. I am assuming I have to loosen the oil pan completely? Or am I just gonna have to pull harder?


Will I be ok by holding the engine up via tranny pan? If so, I'll do that.

Got the cover off, and got a surprise! The cam magnet was GONE. Luckily, it was laying on the edge of the oil pan, on the verge of falling in. I was in awe to see it laying there.

The chain looks to be in great shape, along with the tensioner, but will be replaced anyways.

It is a good idea to use a piece of 3/4" plywood about the size of the tranny pan to distribute the weight. I would not advise using a jack pad directly on the trans pan to hold the weight of the drive train. Good way to damage the pan. Actually, if I need to support the drive train, I just hang it on my engine hanger.

Next order of business....

Degreasing the parts I took off. I am wanting to degrease my timing cover, BUT one problem.... the oil pump. Is the oil pump removable, or will I be safe degreasing the cover with the oil pump installed? I just don't want to kill the pump or get dirt or degreasing crap stuck in it.

EDIT - I need to get batteries in my camera. The timing chain tensioner was worn badly, just eaten up from 16 years of the chain rubbing against it. Also, it'* a good thing I got a new crank sensor. The old one was so brittle that I touched it and BUST! went the little guiding tabs on the sensor that hold it on the crank sensor bracket. I have a feeling my idle problems will be gone for good when I am all said and done.

It is a better idea to disassemble the oil pump to clean and inspect it. The traditional method is to pack the gearotors with vaseline when you put it back together so the pump will be self-priming. Sometimes I use 50 or 70 weight motor oil or STP to accomplish the same thing if the pump won't be sitting for a long time before start up.