Time to go to sleep for the cold season - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-02-2013, 10:26 AM   #1
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Talking Time to go to sleep for the cold season

Well, after a summer having absolutely no time to repair what'* left to repair on the Bonnie (which isn't much honestly, pretty much everything'* new) I wasn't sure if I was going to keep it.

I had no room for it at home and I can't use it as a winter car if I don't change the steering rack, it'* way too loose.

I tried to sell it, as expected, no one want'* a 20 year old car they didn't even know existed (face it, everyone thinks they are Grand Prix).

Finally, my brother in law rented a place with lots of space and offered me to keep the car this winter.

Lots of the words just to express how happy and relieved I am. I love this car. It was one of my best friends now-dead-from-cancer mom'* car. I bought it when she began feeling sick. I think she'* happy too about the way I try to maintain and keep it in good shape the best I can.

So, just to make this thread worth something : Anything I should think about before snow buries it for some months?

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Old 12-02-2013, 11:35 AM   #2
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i would put some open baking soda boxes in the inside and trunk, and put jackstands under it or something thats not the tires because they flatspot. put some stabil in the tank then run it a while, then remove the battery and put it on a trickle charger somewhere, just be sure not to put it somewhere that vented hydrogen gas can be a concern. dont store anything mice like in it either, food, paper etc..
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:37 AM   #3
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  1. Change the oil and filter.
  2. Fill the fuel tank with fresh, premium fuel to avoid condensation in the tank. The gasoline can become "gummy" over time, so it is useful to add a gasoline stabilizer, which is available for lawn mowers and other seasonal yard equipment.
  3. Make sure coolant levels are proper.
  4. Inflate tires to the proper pressure. If you can, it is advisable to jack the car up on axle stands to avoid flat spots in the tires.
  5. Clean and wax the car. Be sure to wash under the car to remove any dirt, especially from the the wheel wells. Clean the interior extensively, being especially vigilant about all food scraps and particles; these can attract small animals. Removing the carpets for heated indoor storage will prevent them from becoming musty. Do not use Armor All or similar products; these contain water, which may become trapped inside the car.
  6. Consider placing a sheet of vapor barrier plastic under the car on the floor if being stored indoors. This will prevent water vapor buildup in an unheated garage, and also makes it very easy to spot fluid leaks when the car is removed from storage.
  7. Open a window slightly if stored indoors, but not enough to allow small animals inside. Stuff a rag into the air intake and exhaust to prevent animals from nesting, covering this with a metal screen (1/4 inch square screen is useful here). Some suggest using strong-smelling chemicals like soap or mothballs to keep animals away, but these can leave a smell in the car.
  8. Use a battery maintainer if the car will be stored for more than a month. These are basically "smart" battery chargers that only turn on periodically. For short times, a few months, the maintainer can be attached to the battery while still in the car. For extended periods, if you are comfortable with basic mechanics, removing the battery and attaching the maintainer to it outside the car is a advisable. If you choose to do this, be sure to contact the car'* manufacturer to ensure that this will not confuse the on-board computers, and that you have written down any needed access codes for devices such as the stereo or alarm.
  9. Place a piece of plastic wrap on the windshield under the wiper blades, to prevent the rubber from sticking to the glass. Better yet, remove the blades completely and store them in a warm place (perhaps beside the battery and carpets). If you remove the blades, be sure to pad the ends of the wiper arms, which can scratch the glass if inadvertently turned on. Alternatively, if your car has the windshield wiper arms that pop out and away from the windshield, you can store them in the "out" position.
  10. If you are comfortable with basic mechanics, remove the spark plugs and spray a small amount of oil into the cylinders to prevent rusting, then insert the plugs again. Special "fogging oil" is available for storing boats, and will work well here. Use of a spark plug anti-seize lubricant on the threads is always advisable, as to prevent the threads from sticking. It will make disassembly easier, when it'* time to change the spark plugs. If you wish to pass on this procedure, there are fuel additives (non alcoholic) that can be added and then driven to coat upper engine parts.
  11. Release the parking brake. If the brake is left on, the brake pads can stick to the rotors. Place chocks under the tires to prevent movement, which is even more effective than the brake, anyway.
  12. Place a note to yourself on the steering wheel outlining which optional steps above you carried out (rag in exhaust, rag in intake, carpets removed, battery removed, etc). When returning to the car in the spring, ensure all of these steps are reversed, checking them off as you go down the list. The list should contain every item separately; "rags in openings" may lead to one being left behind.
  13. Lock the doors.
  14. Use a car cover only for outdoor storage, or in very dusty locations. Leaving the car "open" indoors allows water vapor to leave the car after humid weather.
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:02 PM   #4
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Ok thanks a lot!
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:18 PM   #5
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Oh and I won't jack it, tires are getting changed as soon as I change the steering rack. I had heard jacking might corrode the otherwise unexposed portion of the shock and prematurely wear the seal. There are new 1 year old KYBs on that. And some of my contractors with old cars advised me not to cover it as it corrodes faster (in their own opinion*). I had stored a 1991 Cadillac some winters ago uncovered and it turned out great.

Car was washed and waxed before. I'll get a trickle charger as soon as Canadian Tire has a 75% rebate on one, which always happens mostly every month I will put a couple boxes of baking soda, hadn't thought of that but it'* brilliant.

I will also pull the car out the snow (literally pull it out, not using the engine) before major melting (implying it happens after 15th of march (winter tire law in Quebec) to let it thaw on dry pavement. I just hope frost is going to hit and not go away before spring. Pretty sure it'* not good to be constantly around 0*C.

Anywho, car survived 18 years of use, I don't think one winter will be the end of it!
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:38 PM   #6
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if you use a breathable car cover it would be fine, but you dont want to use a tarp or something like that
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:24 PM   #7
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You can raise the car on jacks without extending the shocks by placing the jack stands under the front and rear suspension components, rather than under the subframe. But, you are changing the tires so it doesn't matter.
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:20 AM   #8
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Allrighty, thanks for all the info everyone! I'll put pics when it thaws. Hopefully, nothing'll be rusted than it is already (stupid rear door seals...)
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