Thermostat/temprature problem
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Thermostat/temprature problem
I changed out my 180 for a 195 because it'* winter in Florida and my mileage went down about 2 mpg. Now after the engine gets up to temp, the temp gauge will unpredicatably move between about 210 and 160 in less than 10 seconds. With the 180, the temp gauge was steady once the engine warmed up unless I was stuck not moving in traffic. There'* no change in the heater output temp when this happens.
I'm pretty sure I didn't leave any major air in the system, and it should purge itself anyway. Changing the thermostat was the only thing done at that time. Thoughts, ideas?
Thanks, Mark.
I'm pretty sure I didn't leave any major air in the system, and it should purge itself anyway. Changing the thermostat was the only thing done at that time. Thoughts, ideas?
Thanks, Mark.
#2
Open the bleeder on top of the thermostat housing to bleed off any additional air that may be trapped in the system. Once the bleeder starts oozing out fluid, close it. See if that helps.
If the temperature is moving that dristically, that rapidly, then you might actually have an issue with the sending unit. First, try bleeding the air out, though.
If the temperature is moving that dristically, that rapidly, then you might actually have an issue with the sending unit. First, try bleeding the air out, though.
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I used a Stant thermostat, I don't remember the part number, but it'* the right one for my car. I did open the bleeder screw and very little if any air escaped. I let a few ounces run out and closed it up. And yes, I did clean off the old felt gasket and used a new one. I also used a new gasket around the thermostat. There are no other indications that anything has changed on the car other than the temp gauge reading.
I'm getting stumped for an answer...
I'm getting stumped for an answer...
#8
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
pick-up one of those that put it on add coolant so it is about the radiator let the car run for 15min or 2 cycles of the T-stat opening and closing and then no air will be in the system
i have one of these funnels and i love it
when your doing that leave the bleeder screw alone i dont prefer to use that and most mechanics agree with me on that one
pick-up one of those that put it on add coolant so it is about the radiator let the car run for 15min or 2 cycles of the T-stat opening and closing and then no air will be in the system
i have one of these funnels and i love it
when your doing that leave the bleeder screw alone i dont prefer to use that and most mechanics agree with me on that one
#9
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Hi GAMEOVER how does the Lisle funnel adapt to the radiator? Does it twist on like a radiator cap or press in like a stopper?
The description at the Lisle web page is vague on this and pictures can be misleading.
http://lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=224
Thanks
Ron.
The description at the Lisle web page is vague on this and pictures can be misleading.
http://lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=224
Thanks
Ron.
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