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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-20-2003, 11:05 PM   #1
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Default tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap?

Anyone know what this could be? There are about 5 taps per sec and when i go faster, the rate increases. When i stood over my engine and reved it, the noise was coming from the passenger side and seems do be down further than the idler pulley. I hear this all the time in real crappy old cars and this just sux.
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Old 04-20-2003, 11:45 PM   #2
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Could also be a lose Timing chain if you have between 80,000 and 120,000 miles and have not had it changed.
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Old 04-21-2003, 12:36 AM   #3
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Default tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap?

i c i c. thanks for the input. I'll poke around some more and hopefully bring it to my brother in laws buddy to get it fixed. I'll let you know what happened.
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Old 04-21-2003, 11:34 AM   #4
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Do the water hose check. Cut a 2 foot length of water hose and use it to isolate the tap. Start at the top of the motor and work down. Run the end of the hose over each valve cover as you listen...you'll find it fast!
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Old 04-22-2003, 12:55 AM   #5
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I usually use a big screwdriver or pry bar for that but the hose will work too.
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Old 04-22-2003, 02:17 PM   #6
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Default tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap?

Well, it turned out to be the worst thing that it could have been. INTERNAL. Everything else was eliminated by disconnecting the belt and shorting out some of the front cylinders. Basically i have a rod knock. I have no idea how much longer my engine is gonna last but right now i just plan on driving it till it dies. I drive it about 3 miles a day during the week and nowhere on the weekends now. After that i'm just screwed b/c i have about 700 bills and have to pay 1200 in june for insurance.The only real option i have is to get my engine rebuilt but w/ no money looks like that aint happening. My other least likely options include winning the lottery, selling meth to get back on track or just getting into a front end collision that isn't my fault. All of those options seem a little sketchy so it looks like public transportation for me...

Anyone have any suggestions? I know i'm screwed but who knows someone probably knows something about this that i don't.
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Old 04-22-2003, 02:27 PM   #7
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See if you can get your insurance lowered, if you only drive 3 miles a day, get it quoted as a part time car or something.

Here'* a story for ya, in my moms 89 Crown Vic LTD, she has terrible engine knock. She is only running on 7 cylinders..LOL, the mechanics said that the engine had to be rebuilt NOW...hahah, that was 3 years ago. So, just drive it, and don't worry, drive her til shes done, or the money is there to fix.

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Old 04-22-2003, 05:22 PM   #8
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Default tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap?

Nice so i have some time left hopefully w/ the insurance thing, i gotta drive like 60 miles a day 5x a week in the summer. right now i'm only driving to the train station down the street. Maybe i should get a loan or something.....
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Old 04-22-2003, 11:56 PM   #9
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I got a rod knock in an old 1987 Cavalier. Blew the whole side out of the block. I was throwing metal chunks all over the road. I would suggest not driving it if you can. It'* hard, but this part can be changed out without removing the engine from the car. I wouldn't suggest that for the weekender. It takes a lift and a good accomplice to get it done.
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Old 04-23-2003, 12:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
How te heck are you knockin with 96,000 miles on your car??? I have 119,000 and have dogged the crapp out of my car... Engine is atill quiet and I still have 60 psi oil pressure at road speed and 30 psi at hot idle.. You might get away with the knock for a while.. How long is another story... You also have to remember you could do a lot more damage to the engine if you keep driving it with the knock... I have seen rod bearings go bad and cause the piston to slam into the head.. Not a good thin on an engine with 9.4 to 1 compression.. You could even smack valves if its bad enough.. In any event it will cost to have the newer 3800'* rebuilt.. And if the crank has been damaged or mared to the point of no return, than it must be replaced, also the rod/rods will have to be resized.. By this point we are getting expensive.. You might be better off finding a new 3800 II engine at a junk yard with 30,000 to 60,000 miles on it... It would be a bunch cheaper than the rebuilt engine.. And you 100% thats it internal, and not the balancer that can sometime mimic a bad rod.. If so than I'm sorry to hear the troubles man. its just not wright
Just not right, tell me about it. :( Almost everything as been replaced on that car so i really have nothing to loose if i can get it rebuilt/ find a replacement. I'm shopping around on the rebuild right now getting a bunch of estimates. I'll start calling the junk yards sooner or later probably. thanks for the advice everyone
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