Taking apart the super - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-22-2003, 05:49 PM   #1
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Default Taking apart the super

I was planning on taking off the super and inspecting the nose cone etc.

Are there any gaskets besides the one connectiong the super to the intake maniold?

Do you know any places that have a bearing rebuild kits for the nose cone instead of buying a whole nosecone?

If the gears are in bad shape will i need a new blower?
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Old 01-22-2003, 10:20 PM   #2
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Read this:
http://www.friedpoodle.com/ba/viewtopic.php?t=361
I'm assuming it'* a Series II engine. If Series I engine then read this:
http://www.friedpoodle.com/ba/viewtopic.php?t=366
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Old 01-22-2003, 11:04 PM   #3
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Nope series 1!

I had to attach the sig.
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Old 01-23-2003, 01:56 AM   #4
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These links might be of interest to you. The first is an M90, but your M62 is almost identical mechanically:

http://www.thrashercharged.com/L67_htm/blower_tear.shtm

http://www.automotive.eaton.com/prod...trols/M62.html

http://www.mn12performance.com/magnuson/magnuson.htm

http://www.canadiansupercharger.com/ (Tell them Alan Ralston (deathrat) sent you, and you'll get a discount)

http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/pro...sc_coupler.htm
(probably the only aftermarket coupler available)

The bearings can be purchased through Bearings Inc, or any other good supplier, but you'd have to pull yours apart first to get the part numbers/dimensions. I'm not aware of any source for the gears, but either Eaton or Magnusson would be the best starting point.
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:35 PM   #5
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Thanks for all the links will.

So i'll definately have to take off the whole super to service the nose cone? booooh :(
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:40 PM   #6
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I haven't done it myself, but a couple of the guys have. It'* not that big of a deal. Alot easier than the non-sc L27 or L36. Pretty simple, really. You should have it off in about an hour. Just make sure you mark everything. The TB is much easier to get off, as the plastic intake on the non-sc requires a nasty little bracket to the lower intake for support.

I'd suggest you actually remove the TB from the SC, remove the MAF sensor, and clean the back side of the TB very well with an intake-safe cleaner while you're at it. Mine was nasty at 80k miles.

Take pics as you go, too. Good reference for putting it back together, and we'd like to see the work, too.

Are you having problems with it? How much boost do you get at WOT?
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:42 PM   #7
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When my dad gets back from White Planes NY working on a plane maybe we'll pull her into the celler and get it done. It'* only been 14 degrees tops outside for the past 4 days. It'* awful out there.

My right rear brake drum actually locked up this morning. I pressed the E-brake pedal down and released it a few times and it let go. Something fishy there too. It may just be because it'* so damn cold though.
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