Strainer sock, fuel pump, '99SLE N/A - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-05-2005, 04:29 PM   #11
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Honestly, I don't know of any Delco pumps that come with the strainer.

So, ya, I think you got lucky!
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Old 10-05-2005, 06:08 PM   #12
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I ordered the part number gmpartsdirect listed as a pump for a 92.
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Old 10-06-2005, 03:48 PM   #13
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What'* the approximate time for this job, and what problems have boarders encountered?
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Old 10-06-2005, 04:30 PM   #14
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It took me about 3 hours. It would probably take the average person about 1.5-2 hours. I just work slowly and am very thorough.

It'* a huge benefit to have an extra set of hands. Muscling the tank around by yourself can be a real bear. If you have access to one, I strongly suggest a transmission jack. The flat plate on the jack is a real back and muscle saver....with or without the help of a buddy.

The biggest issues I ran into were the plastic "quick" connectors. I say that in quotes because they're not too quick to come apart after being on the car for six years. Mine were pretty corroded. Two broke in the disconnect process. I bought new Dorman ones from Napa. What I did was cut the sending unit galvanized fuel lines and lower the tank (after unplugging electrically, of course). That really opens up the area to work with those quick disconnect clips. And, it didn't matter to me since I put in a new sender too. If you're not putting in a new sender be prepared for some skinned knuckles as you try to work those clips loose.

The only other thing I did that was more of PM than anything else was to lightly use a steel brush and sand away some of the rust that developed above and around where the tank sits. I then sprayed it with flat black Rust Oleum to prevent any more rust. (My car had very, very little rust...I'm just anal).

Reinstallation was a snap. Of course, PB penetrant was my friend!
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Old 10-06-2005, 04:31 PM   #15
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Took me an afternoon. I don't remember the exact time span.

Give the two strap bolts a good shot of WD-40 a while before you try to loosen them.
Hopefully your fuel line disconnects aren't corroded solid like mine. If they are, you gotta figure out on your own how to get the tank down without breaking anything. I considered cutting, but instead I undid the fuel line brackets towards the front of the car so I could have some slack.
My 92 has a cam ring that holds the pump and sender in. If a 99 still has that, you need a flat screwdriver and a mallet to tap on the tabs that stick up to rotate the ring counterclockwise.
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Old 10-06-2005, 04:34 PM   #16
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Yes, the 99 does have the locking cam ring. Same design as a 92.

Bob, you'll want to be careful not to kill it. Use plenty of lubricant and work it off slowly.

Also, spray compressed air all around the locking cam ring assembly. You don't want dirt to drop down in the tank when you pull the sender up and out.
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Old 10-06-2005, 11:07 PM   #17
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thanks, all.

fortunately, i live in northern California, and cars just don't rust here (no rain, no salt) so I don't think rust is going to be a problem. I've run almost all the gas out of the tank so it will be lighter.

two questions: I assume the big rubber o-ring that came with the fuel pump is for the cam-lock device?

And, what material is the tank itself, steel or plastic?

thanks again to everyone. The job begins at first light on Saturday!.
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Old 10-07-2005, 12:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
thanks, all.

fortunately, i live in northern California, and cars just don't rust here (no rain, no salt) so I don't think rust is going to be a problem. I've run almost all the gas out of the tank so it will be lighter.

two questions: I assume the big rubber o-ring that came with the fuel pump is for the cam-lock device?

And, what material is the tank itself, steel or plastic?

thanks again to everyone. The job begins at first light on Saturday!.
Yes thats exactly what the rubber O-Ring is for... You'll find it degraded when you remove it... The reason for the new one..

I believe that the tank is a coated steel to help prevent rust...<--- Not a real problems down here in FL either....

I have seen Caddilliacs with Plastic tanks tho..

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Old 10-07-2005, 12:37 PM   #19
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Thanks for your replies, all. The big day approaches. Keep those tips coming in!
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Old 10-08-2005, 11:30 AM   #20
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OK, boys. Sun'* up, tools are laid out, the tank is near empty.

Cover me, I'm goin' in!
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