Starter Bolt - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-09-2006, 01:16 AM   #1
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Default Starter Bolt

I have right here the bolt and end plate for a newer looking starter.

I had posted a while back about this car I grabbed for cheap to see what some opinions were, and I couldn't figure out what the bolt was for, but I searched around and found the starter just a little damaged.

I was wondering if any of you knew if the starter could be repaired? Or maybe if there was a diagram one of you had, or knew where I could grab one? I know some can be taken apart and put back together if you know how.


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Thanks a lot.
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Old 05-09-2006, 08:51 AM   #2
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Out of 6,000 members in 4 years, I'm not aware of any self-repairs on a Bonneville starter.

Can you put your year and trim level in your signature so we know what car you have? I don't really recall the topic you are referring to. We have about 800 new posts a day.
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Old 05-09-2006, 09:44 AM   #3
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Default starter

Just repaired mine on the SSE during the NEBF. You remove the two end cap bolts, and a third by the Bendix and slide off the housing. Clean it, re-grease the roller bearings, and install 4 new brushes on the armatuer. Spins like a rabbit now.
Never was a remove and replace mechanic. I like to take things apart and see how they tick. Also many of the rebuilts have been around the block for 500,000 or more miles or some old lady held the starter on getting it cherry red. They rebuild it and give it to you.
Just removed my alt on the SSE sat. I will rebuild it and change out the internal regulator and rectifyer bridge. Brushes don't usually go. You have to heat the three silver soldered stator connections to get the two halves apart.
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Old 05-09-2006, 09:53 AM   #4
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Default Re: starter

Quote:
Originally Posted by SSEBONNE4EVA
Just removed my alt on the SSE sat. I will rebuild it and change out the internal regulator and rectifyer bridge. Brushes don't usually go. You have to heat the three silver soldered stator connections to get the two halves apart.
This procedure isn't for the faint of heart. It'* a real trick to get the housing torqued correctly to prevent shaft/bearing bind.
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Old 05-09-2006, 12:31 PM   #5
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Default Alt

On the alt you have to scribe a line before taking the two halves apart. Then on re- assembly line up your line then tighten the bolts equally going around in a circle a number of times while you increase torque a little at a time.
These are the starter brushes. I generally don't change the holders.
Get them off a guy on Ebay for $4. Thats $4 for a complete re-build.
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Old 05-09-2006, 12:44 PM   #6
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You know, I've rebuilt drills, saws, compressors, sprayers, etc. at work for the ******** that break them, but I've never considered doing the same on my cars. Don't know why really...It'* just that I never did.

Like you said Bill, this type of repair isn't for the faint hearted, but if you take your time (and have some clue of what you are doing), it is possible.

That having been said, for anyone who hasn't done it before I wouldn't suggest trying it the first time on your daily driver you need tomorrow. Practice on an old one first and verify the results. Just my opinion.
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Old 05-09-2006, 12:52 PM   #7
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Yes its not for the faint of heart but after you do it for a while its too easy.
Have to have time to practice. The older large Chiltons manuals will show you how step by step.
Today you get a thin paperback with remove and replace procedures.
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Old 05-09-2006, 12:59 PM   #8
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Just a reflection of the changing times, my friend.
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Old 05-09-2006, 02:53 PM   #9
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Thanks guys, it'* just a 92' SE. Nothing special, just wanted to get it running.

I guess I'm just going to have to see what happens, but I appreciate it.

See ya.
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