How to do it. And if it gets your boost back, replace the BCS.

If it get'* my boost back? Or if it doesn't get my boost guage back?

I just plugged the battery back up and took it for a drive. When I got home, the codes I pulled were code 17 - Spark Reference Circuit and code 58 - PASS-Key. I haven't done the Boost Solenoid adjustment yet. What do these codes mean?

To confirm, your tach wiggles when you crank the car, right? This should be said in common "no start" issues. Sounds like you have a bad ground, check the ground under the ICM bracket. Thats the big one there.

In relation to the boost stuff, beats the **** outta me.. BCA BCS.. sounds like a tv channel to me. Like one of those cheap local ones. BCA = Generic RCA knockoff BCS = Bad Cable Shows.


-justin

When the car is fine the tach does the whole sweep along with the others. But my dad said that when he couldn't get the car started the tach wasn't wiggling. How do I fix the ground problem, or at least check to see if that'* it?

Ignition problem. The ground is located on the bottom [right, or front of car]. I don't know how much our brackets differ, but on mine, it is located here [3] [the periods being bolts.
1______2

_________3

Just remove the top bolt, and there will be one large wire, then two smaller ones. The two smaller ones are direct grounds for the ICM, IIRC. The large is just a main ground to the block [to increase spark, long story, ignore this if you don't know what it is already]. Mine was filled with grease. So, just clean the stud, bottom bolt [one that goes between the ground wires, but is closer to the block], the top bolt, and of course the connections. Make sure the wires are in good condition [IE not broken or anything of that nature]. Put some dielectric grease [be liberal] on the wires, stud, and bolts. Then put the top bolt back on. The main ground is for the ECU, starter, and pretty much everything that is required for the car to run [whole ignition and fuel delivery system, and such]. So this is an important ground. Also, a quick way to test this [on my car at least] ground, is you know when you originally turn on the car in the morning [but don't start her] the SES light stays on? And then until you start the car [completing the diagnostic test of the ECU] the SES light goes off? Well, if that SES light does NOT turn on after the car stalls, that ground isn't grounding.. or something else is wrong with the ECU. Usually it'* that ground, though.

Don't forget to clean up any corrosion on the battery terminals, always a problem on cars of this age.


-justin

Well, is the ground located on/ near the little Ignition coils? Or in a different spot? If anybody has a picture of this, that would help a lot.

I had a new battery put in the car a few months ago. So, I don't think that the terminals have any corrosion on them.

The other end of the cables need to be cleaned, and I'm not sure I buy a ground problem. A code 17 is usually the ICM, Cam sensor, or crank sensor. You need to troubleshoot further after cleaning up all your positive and ground connections. Both at the battery, alternator, and anywhere those connections go.

I have a pic somewhere, but I don't feel like looking. The easiest way I can think of, is just follow the black cable [ground] on the battery, that'* the big ground wire I was talking about. It'* right there. It is on the side. So, if you are standing on the Passenger'* side looking towards the Driver'* side, on the ICM there are bolts and such there. Just feel around there [it'll be dirty].


-justin

Oh, you mean like right next to the battery? Could this also be what'* causing my angel eye halos to be sort of dull?