Hey guys, i got this '93 Ciera in the shop (previous post). It'* got the 3300 engine so it'* close to our big brothers Now as far as i've gotten, the guy that brought it in replaced the coolant fitting in the intake, then when he tried to start it it wouldn't go. I checked the spark, and it was dead. Fuel pump is good. I replaced the module with a known good one, and nothing happened. Then went on to remove the crank sensor, and as i was using the starter to break the bolt lose IT STARTED. Thought it was all better, but a minute later it quit. Back to square one. Replaced the crank sensor, still nothin. Ordered computer, put it in, STILL nothin. No codes were/are stored on the computer at this time. I'm out of ideas. Anyone help?

Might sound like a very dumb question...but back to basics...

Are all your plug wires properly seated at both ends of the wire (coils and plugs)? Also, are the wires on the proper spark plug from the coil?

No back to basics is fine. Yes all the plug wires are fine, they didn't move from when the car started to when it stalled. The plug wires are hooked in this order, as looking from over the passenger fender: 6,3,2,5,4,1. That'* going by the reading on the top of the coils, and that'* how they were hooked when it ran.

possible VATS failure? check for fuel inj pulse with a noid light, most VATS anti theft failures will cause the engine to start when cranking but die as soon as you release the key to the run possition.

keep the noid light on there, while diagnosing if you have no injector pulse
make sure you have spark also, if you have neither you ar probably looking at a sensor (cam or crank) or module problem...

basics includes checking for power and grounds!

good luck with the diagnosis!

james

sorry I just am not sure... does that car have coil packs?

you said you replaced the module (ignition)... do you mean the Ignition Control Module, or do you mean coil packs?

and w/ basics... check even the wiring, your grounds, even on the alt and bat, you might see the light come on in the door, but that doesn't mean enough juice is coming thru to turn her over.

I had a Toyota that wouldn't even attempt to start unless there was a certain voltage, or something like that... let us know what you come up with.

The car has no VATS, cieras couldn't get them. There is no cam sensor, the 3300 has an MPI fuel injection system not an SFI system that requires a cam sensor. I am charging the battery right now as it quit from cranking it so much. It'* just a total puzzler.

What condition is the wiring that goes to/from the crank sensor and ICM? I agree with everyone else, check all the grounds, too.

Yea i thought it was grounding, but i checked all of that and it seemed to be OK. The wiring doesn't have any visible breaks or anything, and i cleaned the connections with some corrosion inhibitor and air dried them. It'* just odd that it would run for no apparent reason just fine for a minute then quit again.

It is an odd one.

Post this question over at n-body.net. That car is an n-body, afterall! Maybe somebody over there has experienced this too.

Thanks i think i will.