don't know, it'* my first forced-induction vehicle... maybe not the last.
but it'* a huge challenge for me, over here in germany, to deal with several problems the car has.

with my trans am, there were no problems... lot'* of parts available, very easy to work on... huge difference... but also in quality
as a daily driver, i wouldn't want to miss the bonnie... quiet, comfortable, well equipped, enough power to the wheels, and relatively cheap to drive ( a smart car would be almost the same *g*.. what a comparison )

A boost gage is reading air pressue in the intake manifold. It should read vacuum (a negative reading) at idle, 0 at medium acceleration, and +7 to +9 psi at WOT. On a car without a */C (like your Trans Am) it will read 0 at WOT.

so my boost control should work... thanks alot for the info
some days ago I ordered some new ign. coils, wires and plugs....
hope it solves my problems...

next week, they'll arive, and then we'll see...

Ah that makes perfect sense. So it would follow then that if you see a boost gauge going back and forth between (-10) - (-7) at idle that you have a vacuum leak?

You have the most vacuum at engine idle. If the engine idle speed is steady, and you aren't turning accessories on and off (like A/C in particular) the vacuum should stay faily steady. Fluctations are a possible sign of a vacuum leak.

By the way, if you are making your observations based on the gage in your car, they are not very accurate. Purchase and install a vacuum gage. I think there are elaborate ones that run vacuum to an electronic sensor which then sends a signal to the gage in the car, but I used a simple gage that measures vacuum directly and ran a vacuum hose from the intake manifold into the passenger compartment.