Sluggish when cold, grinding sound? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-01-2010, 07:32 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Danthurs View Post
Check to make sure it moves freely. Also watch to see if it moves when you give it gas.
Yes it moves freely. When the engine is idling it is at a 90 deg angle relative to the supercharger and when I took the vacuum line off the top for a second it went to a full 180 deg angle (flat down, like it is when the engine is off). I revved the engine and it seemed to move accordingly as well. I just took the car for another test run and it seemed to be fine, I feel good pull in boost now. Does this point to the solenoid then, because it only happens sometimes? I was DEFINITELY feeling no boost while driving before, but now I am so I'm not sure what to think.
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:56 PM   #12
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Could be a bad solenoid. Check the plug and connections.
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Old 03-01-2010, 08:01 PM   #13
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The plug and connections seem fine, no rust or corrosion. Although, I am missing that foam thing that covers the hole on the BCS.
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Old 04-12-2010, 07:58 PM   #14
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It does seem to go away when the engine gets warm, same with the grinding sound. But this kind of thing has never happened before until recently. And I can definitely hear a sudden change in how the engine sounds, and then a surge of power when I give it more gas (obviously), but only after a pause, like something had to clear for the engine to get back in sync, it'* weird.
This might be reaching, but could this be KR? I just read about it and I'm thoroughly confused, but...I did read that the PCM can cut power when it detects knock, and that driving short distances can increase build up or something and create knock. Unfortunately I practically only drive short distances for around town stuff.

I really don't like it when I give the car a significant amount of gas and get no power in return. The engine just doesn't sound right, either. It will "clear" all the sudden and I'll get the power back. So something'* gotta be wrong.
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:26 PM   #15
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That doesn't sound like KR to me. Knock Retard (KR), retards the timing to prevent predetonation. If you can feel it that would mean it'* not doing it'* job, and I wouldn't think it would go away when you give it more gas. Generally it is the opposite.

When you say that the arm on the boost bypass moves freely, do you mean it springs down hard? If the engine is off and you lift it up then release it should smack down. If not, spray the rod right where it enters the supercharger with some PB blaster and let it sit a couple hours, that should get it moving freely.

Something else you can try is removing the supercharger belt and going for a drive, does it display any of the symptoms that it was with the belt on? May not be helpful now if everything is working, but something to keep in mind for later.

You can order a new foam filter for the bypass at rockauto, they are like .69 a piece. Don't forget to grab a discount code from the forum. I ordered 6 so I would have spares because they are so cheap.
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Old 04-12-2010, 09:03 PM   #16
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That doesn't sound like KR to me. Knock Retard (KR), retards the timing in response to predetonation to prevent further predetonation. If you can feel it that would mean it'* not doing it'* job, and I wouldn't think it would go away when you give it more gas. Generally it is the opposite.
Fixed it for ya there.

But I agree with the intake. This noise was caught by the stock airbox. Intake went on to my car, hello noise on cold start.

EDIT: Does it sound like this? http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pr30-08041.flv

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Old 04-12-2010, 09:17 PM   #17
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Thanks for the clarification.
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Old 04-12-2010, 10:00 PM   #18
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Okay. KR wouldn't make sense then. And honestly the low boost thing only happened once, it seemed to be an isolated incident... The arm moves quickly and in most circumstances I get power. It seems to happen more when the engine is cold, and they'll often be this popping sound when the engine "clears" then everything sounds normal I'll get power again.
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