Are Slotted rotors worth it?
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From: Saginaw, MI

It is getting time to do the front brakes on the Bonnie. Now, I can get good Bendix rotors at work for around $20 each. And I will probably use Wagner Thermoquiet Semi-Metallic pads. My question is, is it worth spending the extra $60 a piece on the Powerslot slotted rotors? Do they make a big enough difference to justify spend 3 times more on them? The brakes work real well on the car as it is. I regulary clean and adjust the rear brakes (every other oil change) and this thing will stop excellent. BUT, can it be better? If I am stopping from 100mph+ I dont want brake fade. Are slotted rotors the answer? Or are they a waste of money?
My opinion? Worth every penny, but only if you spend even more for ceramic pads.
Others will have other opinions, but this is an unbeatable combination for me. They bite harder when the get hot instead of fading, they brake better in the rain, because they can shed the water, and they clean themselves by sending the dust out the vents (not to mention pad gasses).
If you drive it like you stole it, go for it.
If it'* a daily driver that you treat with kid gloves, don't.
Both the Bendix and the Powerslots are proven performers here. Let your driving style make the choice.
Others will have other opinions, but this is an unbeatable combination for me. They bite harder when the get hot instead of fading, they brake better in the rain, because they can shed the water, and they clean themselves by sending the dust out the vents (not to mention pad gasses).
If you drive it like you stole it, go for it.
If it'* a daily driver that you treat with kid gloves, don't.
Both the Bendix and the Powerslots are proven performers here. Let your driving style make the choice.
Bendix for Normal - Moderate Driving
PowerSlots for Heavy stopping, frequent stopping, HARD stopping, frequent high speed quick slowdowns (track)
Besides performance, if you have the spare bucks, powerslots look way better if you have revealing wheels.
But before going nuts on the friction part of the brake system, do be sure that the hydraulic part of the system is top notch. Inspect all lines very carefully, and replace rubber brake hoses every 100k. Its also very good to keep your brake system freshly bled. If the fluid is dark and oxidized in the MC, its probably been too long since the last bleed. Also, don't forget to periodically check calipers and wheel cylinders for leakage that can cause lack of solid brake pressure under high stress situations.
PowerSlots for Heavy stopping, frequent stopping, HARD stopping, frequent high speed quick slowdowns (track)
Besides performance, if you have the spare bucks, powerslots look way better if you have revealing wheels.
But before going nuts on the friction part of the brake system, do be sure that the hydraulic part of the system is top notch. Inspect all lines very carefully, and replace rubber brake hoses every 100k. Its also very good to keep your brake system freshly bled. If the fluid is dark and oxidized in the MC, its probably been too long since the last bleed. Also, don't forget to periodically check calipers and wheel cylinders for leakage that can cause lack of solid brake pressure under high stress situations.
When I hit WCBF in 06, WillWren and I compared brakes. One of his comments while driving my car was how nice the brakes were.
He has the powerslots and ceramics, I have the bendix and ceramics. Either way ... ceramics are the choice for both of us. The ability to bite when hot is one of the characteristics I look for in a pad.
Onto the rotors. I have been extremely happy and haven't warped a rotor yet. IIRC Bill'* powerslots were starting to warp slightly. Let'* remember different driving styles have the largest factor in warping. Since swapping to the Bendix, I haven't been able to warp a rotor, even when I hotlapped about 25 times at the track. That'* a serious heat buildup.
He has the powerslots and ceramics, I have the bendix and ceramics. Either way ... ceramics are the choice for both of us. The ability to bite when hot is one of the characteristics I look for in a pad.
Onto the rotors. I have been extremely happy and haven't warped a rotor yet. IIRC Bill'* powerslots were starting to warp slightly. Let'* remember different driving styles have the largest factor in warping. Since swapping to the Bendix, I haven't been able to warp a rotor, even when I hotlapped about 25 times at the track. That'* a serious heat buildup.
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I can attest to the bendix rotors... I am on the 3rd engine but still have the rotors with no warp at all.. Stops strong and smooth every time.. Next time I'll have to get the ceramic pads.. 
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Originally Posted by TheDude
It is getting time to do the front brakes on the Bonnie. Now, I can get good Bendix rotors at work for around $20 each. And I will probably use Wagner Thermoquiet Semi-Metallic pads. My question is, is it worth spending the extra $60 a piece on the Powerslot slotted rotors? Do they make a big enough difference to justify spend 3 times more on them? The brakes work real well on the car as it is. I regulary clean and adjust the rear brakes (every other oil change) and this thing will stop excellent. BUT, can it be better? If I am stopping from 100mph+ I dont want brake fade. Are slotted rotors the answer? Or are they a waste of money?
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From: Dumfries, Virginia Member: #6887

I don't have the Ceramics but I do have a set of Drilled/Slotted rotors. They alone made a difference in stopping. I am very happy with the results I got with them. As far as pads I have been running Possi-Quite simi-metallics. I have Ceramic on my truck and they don't produce any black dust on the wheels, which is nice.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Saginaw, MI

Thanks for the replies guys. I think for now I will go with the Bendix rotors and some ceramic pads. I need to replace the struts and mounts too, so cash will be a little tight for the slotted rotors. What are your recomendations for a ceramic pad? Or are they all about equal?
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