Several Questions/Problems 93 SSEI Rough Idle/Fuel Pressure - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-02-2010, 08:09 AM   #11
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Hi,

so this night i checked my Injectors. and they stay all closed but i lost my fuel pressure again, so i think it'* the fuel pump itself. but ok, than i just will drive with this issue till it dies completly.

The plastik on the bottom of the injectors looked old and crappy but they sprayded fantastic without dropping or something like that.

BUT:

I removed the front manifold today and found a few holes on the connector hose to the rear manifold. is this a known issue? is it worth it to weld it again (i welded it already 2 years ago) or should i build in a new or good used one?

could THIS cause my problems? but if so, why does it also idle rough when the engine is cold? in cold condition the O2 sensor doesn't work so could it still be another problem?

Thanks again.

Manni
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Old 06-02-2010, 08:45 AM   #12
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You talking about the crossover pipe? Ya, you want those closed up. A exhaust leak will throw off the O2 sensor.
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Old 06-02-2010, 09:01 AM   #13
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yep, i mean the crossover pipe. is it normal that this one got holes? like i said i welded this one 2 years ago and now it has again 3 or 4 holes in it....

but what about my question when the engine is cold? the O2 do only take effect when it is hot, so why does the engine idle rough when it'* cold?
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Old 06-02-2010, 12:06 PM   #14
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i totaly forgot, is it usualy a problem that the rear manifold also got holes and cracks?

because it'* a pain in the butt to remove the rear manifold too so i wanted it to stay if it is not necessary.
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Old 06-02-2010, 12:19 PM   #15
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You never ever want unmetered air to enter the system between the MAF and the O2 sensor.
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Old 06-03-2010, 02:54 PM   #16
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sooo, here we go, i removed today my LIM and i want also change my both Coolant Temp Sensors, BUT, in my oppinion they are both the same.

Is that so or are they different?

They look the same, they have the same connector style and they also have the same wire colors.

But one is on the manifolds side and the other one is under the TB.

I hope someone could help my figure this out.

i want to change/add/renew now:

- All manifold Gaskets and Gaskets i come by in this step
- Thermostat
- Both Coolant Temp Sensors
- IAC
- TPS
- MAF
- MAP
- PCV
- Air Filter
- Fuel Filter
- Oil Filter
- valve cover gaskets
- Heater Hose Connector
- O2 Sensor

Is there anything else i should check or renew now in this step? Because now it'* open. What else should i have a eye on?

I don't wanted to change the head gasket because i never had trouble with that, or would you recommend that?

Would you change the Injectors too or should i leave them in the car?

Thanks again.

Manni
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:37 PM   #17
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Hi Guys,

i have done all the things above.

i made everything from the LIM upwards new.

even the injectors are new.

the sparkplugs are new, the wires, the coils, the ignition module aso....

BUT it still has a realy rough idle when it is cold and also sometimes when it is hot. it starts hard even if it is cold or hotand i don't know where i could further search.

Please help me and give me a bit advice what to do now...

i put in soooo much money now in this car and it is a pain to see that it stil idles rough...

i also built in a new Delco O2, new manifolds incl Gaskets, new drive belts everything.

PLEASE HELP ME OUT TO GET THIS FIXED :(

Manni
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Old 07-11-2010, 02:21 PM   #18
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No further things i could check or do you all have no idea what to check else?

:(
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Old 07-12-2010, 11:47 AM   #19
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Hi Guys,

i think i finally found and solved the problem.

After i ordered again nearly every sensor just for triple check everything, the car starts up and runs great after i hooked up the now 3rd new MAF.

So it seems like the other two MAF Sensors failed directly from the beginning.

the funniest thing is that nothing changed in the way it idles when i pulled the plug from the MAF but with the new MAF it runs now WAY SMOOTHER and in all temperatures without stalling or such things.

I'm so glad that this is finally solved and now i could give all the other unused sensors back and have a nice day and week

Thanks for everything

Manni

PS: i hope i have the 2nd Bonneville also finished soon, then i will post up a few pics of my Rides.
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Old 07-23-2010, 01:14 PM   #20
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thanks for the post. I have a similar problem. And just me, these sensors. Probably have to torture a dealer at another sensor and set in his presence. And so I think I'll yuproverit generator, because sometimes he starts to flicker with increasing temperature the engine up to 200f
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