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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-10-2004, 10:51 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damemorder
Quote:
Originally Posted by CmptrNerd
Oh yeah! Have a set of NGK Iridium IX'* that I might as well get a gapping tool for and throw in unless 95naSTA still wants them. Will see if I can get a MAF screen at the dealer since mine is gone.
The only way to buy a new MAF screen is to buy a complete TB, $350.
Could get one from a junk yard too.
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Old 11-10-2004, 12:12 PM   #42
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whoa now....the mod is to REMOVE the maf screen, not add one if yours is missing! check out techinfo.
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Old 11-10-2004, 12:37 PM   #43
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Yea I intentionally removed my MAF screen so I'll just leave it out and keep the extra 1/4 pony. Went places today and got everything I need (I think). Got a Fel-Pro TB gasket at Autozone as well as a neat gapping tool, plug socket and a K&N recharge kit for my filter and some gasket sealant. Also got a EGR gasket that looks like its made out of lead of some sort from Advance Auto Parts and ordered the lower and upper manifold gaskets which will be in tomorrow (not sure what brand but the EGR one is GP Sorensen). Budget is under $50 for the gaskets alone but with all the other junk I bought Id say about $75 or so. I think I might have a lot of fun doing this but every time I look at the engine I get intimidated. Good times!
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Old 11-10-2004, 07:48 PM   #44
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Turns out my dad is off and we are going to start on this project tomorrow morning. Installing those spark plugs was a back breaker and a skin ripper so I will probably go buy some technical gloves or whatever they are called. First thing is to take everything apart the first day and get it all cleaned so I can put it back together the next morning. Im so excited because I can feel a big increase in HP coming from this because my TB has quite a bit of dirt in it. Quick question though, do I put gasket sealant on just the lower and upper manifold gaskets or on the EGR and TB gasket as well?
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Old 11-10-2004, 08:30 PM   #45
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Oh god... let me just tell you how to do it....

6A8-14 Intake manifold - Complete - Non Supercharged/

Remove:
1. Fuel injector sight sheild (Says 3800 on it, pops off)
2. Air intake Duct (Black tube, #2 Standard screwdriver)
3. Fuel rail (Depressurize first, Four 10mm bolts)
4. Exhaust crossover heat sheild (Tow 13mm nuts, Under Master Cylinder)
5. Cable bracket to cylinder head mounting bolt (13mm stud on head, two 5/16" or so bolts to TB)
6. Power steering pump support bracket (13 or 15mm, Four bolts. Have breaker bar handy)
7. Alternator (Two 13mm Bolts, Mark wires when you disconnect them)
8. Alternator bracket (Bolted to front cylinder head)
9. Heater pipes (Above water pump, black metal pipe with retaining bolt)
10. Bypass hose (#2 Standard screwdriver, Goes from timing cover to LIM)
11. Intake manifold (Slightly heavy, be careful)

Clean:
Everything with Sensor safe cleaner.
Chase all threads.
Insure that mating surfaces are cleaned.

Install:
Reverse of Removal, Follow these tips:
1. Clean the cylinder block, Heads and intake manifold of all oil with a suitable solvent.
2. Apply RTV Blue to the ends of the manifold seals (GM# 12345336)
3. Clean the intake manifold bolts and bolt holes of adhesive compound.
4. Apply thread lock compound (GM#12345493) or equivalent to the intake manifold bolt threads prior to assembly
5. Tighten the intake manifold bolts twice to 10Nm (88 lb. in) following the sequence in Figure 21. (There'* ten bolts, start in the middle and work your way out clockwise)


Other Torque Specs:
Fuel Rail to Intake Manifold: 15Nm or 11 lb. ft.
Alternator bracket to Cylinder head: 50Nm or 36 lb. ft.
Alternator: 50Nm or 36 lb. ft.
Throttle Body to Intake Manifold: 15Nm or 11 lb. ft.
Throttle Cable Bracket to Throttle Body: 4Nm or 35 lb. in.

DO NOT SEPERATE YOUR UIM AND LIM. Find whoever sold you a gasket to go between them and smack them. THERE IS NO GASKET BETWEEN THE UIM AND LIM. DO NOT PUT A GASKET IN THERE.

That'* how you do it. If you have a question about something don't hesitate to ask.
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Old 11-10-2004, 09:09 PM   #46
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Will some STP Engine Degreaser work for cleaning the parts or just some of the parts? I want this to be like brand new after I clean it so I want to do a thorough cleaning of all the parts. I got this sealant called Hylomar HPF that has high temperature properties so Im assuming this will be ok instead of RTV Blue. And thank you so much for those instructions. WAIT! Will I still be able to thoroughly clean the UIM with the LIM still attached or will it be kind of hard? I dont know what it looks like underneath but from the top view it seems like its probably 6 separate tubes to clean.
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Old 11-10-2004, 09:33 PM   #47
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Thanks for that clarification Don... nobody had directly answered my question about that difference between L27s and L36s. I apologize for any confusion I created; I still have a ton to learn about this stuff. Thanks for setting me straight!
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Old 11-10-2004, 10:17 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CmptrNerd
Will some STP Engine Degreaser work for cleaning the parts or just some of the parts? I want this to be like brand new after I clean it so I want to do a thorough cleaning of all the parts. I got this sealant called Hylomar HPF that has high temperature properties so Im assuming this will be ok instead of RTV Blue. And thank you so much for those instructions. WAIT! Will I still be able to thoroughly clean the UIM with the LIM still attached or will it be kind of hard? I dont know what it looks like underneath but from the top view it seems like its probably 6 separate tubes to clean.
You can clean a whole lot of it. Hylomar will work instead of RTV Blue. Most of you time spent on this will be cleaning. Get lots of clean towels.
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Old 11-11-2004, 12:34 PM   #49
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Cool. Im thinking of taking pictures of the whole operation to maybe assist people in the future but Im not sure. Gonna grab a shower and a meal and get started today.
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Old 11-11-2004, 07:09 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_news_1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damemorder
If the leak is coming from there, There is no gasket to go buy. You just have to buy a tube of gasket maker. It'* kind of a weird way to assemble things, This is why GM says to never seperate the UIM from the LIM unless repairing the mating surfaces or replacing one of the components.
Ok, I can't just let this go without getting my head straight... are 93s and 97s different? Because I just replaced the gasket between my LIM and UIM... are we talking about the same thing here???

^ This picture just lost me $13, thanks PAL!!!! lol, sucks because I bought the LIM gasket for $20 at Advance Auto Parts and when I opened it I had the image of this^ gasket stuck in my head so I thought it was the wrong one and ended up returning it. Went to another place and asked specifically for the LIM gasket 3 times and when I opened that one at home it turned out to be the same thing but I thought it was different because I paid more for it. Sucks to be me today, all was going well until I screwed up. Was too late to start working on all of this so I will start early tomorrow.
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