Self Engine Repair. SUCCESS!!! - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-09-2004, 03:45 PM   #21
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Sorry, I'm not clarifying myself here. My fault. Yes, I am aware that they are two different engines. My question is whether or not the L27 has a gasket between the LIM and UIM. I'm confused because I just assumed that all motors had a gasket between the intakes, but from what you guys are saying this isn't true? I obviously need someone to spell it out for me... I apologize for making this discussion so lengthy. Thanks for the help!
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Old 11-09-2004, 04:00 PM   #22
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Dude that is a hardcore German last name! Congrats! lol
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:19 PM   #23
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Hey there...I have a few suggestions if this is your first real automotive repair job. The main tools you'll need is a variet of ratchets of 1/2, 3/8, and 1/4" variety. Youll possibly need a mix of metric and english sockets too. Here'* something that can save you A LOT OF TIME AND HEADACHES..... get a roll of masking tape. Anytime you remove or disconnect anything, put a tag on the two ends you took apart and have a system to identify them as going together. This way...you always know where stuff goes back.. It'* great for hoses, etc. Also...when you remove bolts, have a box lid or ziplock bags to put them in and mark the bolts as to where they go so you don't ahve to scratch your head when it comes time to go back togther.....hmmm, this one is 1/4" longer...which hole does it go in? Make sure you have rags and clean things out. If you ever get close to the throttle body....don't ding up the screen. Before you do the job, check out the condition of the fuel/vacuum/coolant hoses. If any are dry rotted or worn, go ahead and replace them. It'll be much easier now when things are apart. Lastly, try to have another car, maybe your dads, available to you. It'* almost inevitable you'll need to go back to the auto store for something!!!


good luck!
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Old 11-09-2004, 07:19 PM   #24
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Great suggestions there, thanks! I am getting a bit upset after reading the Haynes book I purchased a while back though. It says that I have to remove the drive belt, alternator, spark plug wires, and even the exhaust heat shield, is this true or just some BS? All I want to do is replace a few gaskets not rebuild my engine.
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Old 11-09-2004, 07:58 PM   #25
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It is absolutely true... this isn't just some "pop it off, pop it back on" kind of job... you'll also have to depressurize your fuel lines and pull the fuel rails and injectors... if you're nervous about any of this you should have someone there to help you. all of the advice that has been listed so far is very valid, especially about marking and labelling disconnected parts.
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Old 11-09-2004, 08:29 PM   #26
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Im cool with injectors and spark plug wires being removed but the drive belt and alternator seems like a tough job that will require special tools. If its actually not that hard then I would consider it but Ive always thought that removing any belt or chain would be impossible for me to do.
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Old 11-09-2004, 08:55 PM   #27
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Removing the serpentine belt is fairly simple, on my 97 anyway. You just have to push down the tensioner pully with a wrench, then slip the belt off. Then you can just unbolt the alternator. But like I said, I've obviously been wrong about a couple things in this post already, so I don't know how Series 1 and 2 compare in this aspect. Shouldn't be TOO hard though.
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Old 11-09-2004, 09:14 PM   #28
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Yea I'll check it all out tomorrow and try to find the source of the problem and see how its all connected. Thanks for the help everyone!
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Old 11-09-2004, 11:02 PM   #29
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I am going to add my .02 since i just completed an engine swap by myself. what an experience. After doing that, a LIM swap should be cake. just label everything with masking tape and permanent marker. Get yourself an old muffin pan to track your bolts or put them in sandwich bags. I found the later simpler. My father has the same issue with his 98 malibu with a 3100 so dont be scared. Just take your time.

you will need a 10mm socket to get at those fuel rail and manifold bolts too.
a scraper or razor to clean your mating surfaces. spray a little carb cleaner on a towel and wipe to rid of coolant and any oils. You'll feel like true mechanice when done. Good Luck.
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Old 11-09-2004, 11:37 PM   #30
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When I first removed the MAF screen a while back and put my intake on I saw a lot of dirt/sand in the throttle body so I can imagine that all this stuff is really dirty inside. Im really excited to get started on this project which I will probably do this weekend.
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