Title says it all. My security light came on right after I pulled out of my driveway. The last time this happened, I switched my ignition key with my spare one, and everything was fine for over a year. Unfortunately, I'm out of spare ignition keys now.

Does the GM-approved fix for this involve removing/replacing the ignition key cylinder, or would it be much easier just to bypass the PassKey system?

Clean contacts on key pellet with eraser first. Then, do the bypass if need be.

go out and press down on the trunk lid. Mine comes on when I go overbumps and I can get out and press down on the closed trunklid and it goes out.

The keys look clean, but I gave both a good erasing. I'll go check the trunk tomorrow, try both keys, and see if the light goes out.

I've read where the passlock/passkey systems only last typically 7 years, some 10 or more.
When they fail it is commonly in the ignition cylinder, but occasionally at the Body Control Module, factory fix is is like 1,000.00 or so.
If the problem is in the ignition, or pellet, you can test the resistance of each.
when you test the key/pellet with a DVOM, you should see one of the following resistances on the VATS Resistance Table.
Once you see what resistance the key is, check your other key to be sure both are the same resistance, then you need to find the power distribution block, I think that is what you call it anyway, you should see the same resistance between the two white wires in the orange sheathing at the block (as long as key is inserted), make sure not to mess with any yellow wires as they are the air bag system wires!
If the resistance is the same there, you'd check it at the Theft Deterrent Module.

Here is what I followed when I bypassed mine, I bypassed mine because I wanted to be able to buy cheaper spare keys, and not have to spend like 27.00 a key. :o

How to bypass the VATS system in a late model GM vehicle


If the car still starts, I don't think it is a VATS problem, as it would disable the starter, and I believe the fuel pump as well,of course I forgot a lot of what I read on VATS, and need to refresh myself a bit..

SE'* don't have the trunk and hood security switches.

I was looking at it last night and wondering where it was. Thanks for clearing that up.

I gave my ignition keys a good cleaning (not that they were too dirty), so we'll see if that'* still enough to turn the light off and save me a little aggravation.

Cleaning the keys didn't work.

Because I found a $5 blank key online, I ordered it, then had it cut for another 85¢. The old ignition keys was pretty worn out, but as I expected, a fresh ignition key didn't solve things either.

Looks like a VATS bypass is in my future.

I thought about ordering the newrockies pro bypass myself, but found that I could just get somebody that can tune with an HPTuners license for my cars model, to tune VATS out for around the same amount or less, so whenever VATS fails at the BCM I'll go that route myself, you may want to see if you can find somebody to tune it out.

that new rockies is expensive. theres this for the car that use it. all that needs to happen is a 50 or 30hz square wave when the key is on to the fuel enable wire to the pcm

GM VATS Bypass Module For LS1 and LT1 GM VATS Bypass Module For LS1 and LT1 [gmvats] - $24.95 : 3rdBrakeFlasher, E-commerce web site