Rotors-1998 Quick Question
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Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 23
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From: Arkansas
[quote="Kennginn" ...
performance rotors part # is PR86631L AND PR86631R[/quote]
Kennginn, you are correct ... I got the cheap ones; however, I called NAPA about the
part #PR86631L AND PR86631R, they told me that these numbers are not coming up
on their computer.
Are the OEM 86631 worth buying ... cost $70.00 each and it is the only high quality
rotor NAPA store by me offers?
performance rotors part # is PR86631L AND PR86631R[/quote]
Kennginn, you are correct ... I got the cheap ones; however, I called NAPA about the
part #PR86631L AND PR86631R, they told me that these numbers are not coming up
on their computer.
Are the OEM 86631 worth buying ... cost $70.00 each and it is the only high quality
rotor NAPA store by me offers?
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,955
Likes: 3
From: Chicago,IL MWBF '04 SURVIVOR MWBF '05 SURVIVOR Napa Manager
[quote=Luke1027]
Kennginn, you are correct ... I got the cheap ones; however, I called NAPA about the
part #PR86631L AND PR86631R, they told me that these numbers are not coming up
on their computer.
Are the OEM 86631 worth buying ... cost $70.00 each and it is the only high quality
rotor NAPA store by me offers?
whats ur zip code there i can find a store that can help u?
Originally Posted by "Kennginn" ...
performance rotors part # is PR86631L AND PR86631R[/quote
performance rotors part # is PR86631L AND PR86631R[/quote
Kennginn, you are correct ... I got the cheap ones; however, I called NAPA about the
part #PR86631L AND PR86631R, they told me that these numbers are not coming up
on their computer.
Are the OEM 86631 worth buying ... cost $70.00 each and it is the only high quality
rotor NAPA store by me offers?
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,955
Likes: 3
From: Chicago,IL MWBF '04 SURVIVOR MWBF '05 SURVIVOR Napa Manager
NAPA AUTO PARTS
Genuine Parts Company (814) 238-0581
2260 N Atherton St State College PA, 16803
go to that one they can help u out a lot better then the one u been going to
Genuine Parts Company (814) 238-0581
2260 N Atherton St State College PA, 16803
go to that one they can help u out a lot better then the one u been going to
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Posts like a Supercharger
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 190
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From: Endwell, NY
Hello everyone,
I can get Brembo rotors at work. Has anyone ever heard of this brand name before? I've been in the business for over 20 years and never had until we got them in stock.
Thanks,
Sellncars
The price of the rotors is $55.00 each.
I can get Brembo rotors at work. Has anyone ever heard of this brand name before? I've been in the business for over 20 years and never had until we got them in stock.
Thanks,
Sellncars
The price of the rotors is $55.00 each.
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From: Richfield, MN
A little off topic, but i just saw today that the newer mercedes come with drilled front from the factory? No wonder people plunk down 90k for one of those. They don't miss any details. Lol
Thread Starter
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Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Arkansas
Performance Rotors from NAPA are $120.00 Each. I think I will just get
the OEM $70.00 each from NAPA. Tried to get the info on the Powerslots
site emailed to me but they have something wrong with the submit button...just won't
submit my request. So I am not sure of where to get a price and availablity in my
area.
You know, after thinking about the slot thing a bit more...and machining them in, I was thinking
how can a slot that is machined in the depth to the min. limit on thickness of a new rotor
cause failure on a rotor? I can't image it being any worse than a groove worn in by a
brake pad. Any thoughts here.
Just thinking.....
Luke
the OEM $70.00 each from NAPA. Tried to get the info on the Powerslots
site emailed to me but they have something wrong with the submit button...just won't
submit my request. So I am not sure of where to get a price and availablity in my
area.
You know, after thinking about the slot thing a bit more...and machining them in, I was thinking
how can a slot that is machined in the depth to the min. limit on thickness of a new rotor
cause failure on a rotor? I can't image it being any worse than a groove worn in by a
brake pad. Any thoughts here.
Just thinking.....
Luke
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Posts like a Camaro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 922
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From: Gilroy, California
"then wd40 on the studs overnight to ensure they are clean and all torque equally."
Bill: Wheel stud torque values are among the few that usually specifically say dry torque.
I'd wire brush the studs, but I think lubricating any wheel stud is a very bad idea.
Bill: Wheel stud torque values are among the few that usually specifically say dry torque.
I'd wire brush the studs, but I think lubricating any wheel stud is a very bad idea.
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Posts like a Turbo
Joined: May 2003
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From: B'ham.AL
My 96 factory service manual says.
“Caution: Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts with your fingers until they are snug. Then tighten the nuts to the torque shown in spec. Section (100-ft. lb.). Improperly tightened wheel nuts could eventually allow the wheel to come off while the vehicle is moving, possibly causing loss of control, personal injury and property damage.”
So do not do what I do and smear a very thin film of grease or anti-seize on wheel studs and lugnut shoulder where it touches the rim.
And no mater what, do not apply a thin film of anti-seize compound between the rotor and hub and rotor and wheel contact surface to prevent corrosion. Nod nod wink wink.
I have been doing this for many years and have never had a lugnut back off. The only cases of stud, lugnut, or rim failure, I know of, were caused by impact guns or rust.
“Caution: Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts with your fingers until they are snug. Then tighten the nuts to the torque shown in spec. Section (100-ft. lb.). Improperly tightened wheel nuts could eventually allow the wheel to come off while the vehicle is moving, possibly causing loss of control, personal injury and property damage.”
So do not do what I do and smear a very thin film of grease or anti-seize on wheel studs and lugnut shoulder where it touches the rim.
And no mater what, do not apply a thin film of anti-seize compound between the rotor and hub and rotor and wheel contact surface to prevent corrosion. Nod nod wink wink.
I have been doing this for many years and have never had a lugnut back off. The only cases of stud, lugnut, or rim failure, I know of, were caused by impact guns or rust.