Rotors-1998 Quick Question - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-10-2005, 01:53 PM   #11
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[quote="Greyhare"]Home drilled/slotted is a very bad idea.
...

If not done correctly they will have a high probability of catastrophic failure. (They will explosively disintegrate)

If this happens and causes an accident your insurance company will just laugh and walk away. You then get to deal with the local DA and the tort lawyers.

Greyhare ... you have convinced me NOT to Drill or Slot my rotors ... thanks for explaning this to me.

I will price the RSM or Powerslot rotors.

Luke
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Old 08-10-2005, 01:55 PM   #12
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Luke...do yourself a big favor and clean the mating surfaces and oil the studs also. This should ensure a warp free powerslot or rsm for miles and miles.
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Old 08-10-2005, 01:57 PM   #13
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Would someone pleae post a link to where
I can purchase the RSM rotors?

Thanks
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Old 08-10-2005, 01:57 PM   #14
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RSM'* and Powerslots are thicker, beefier precision blanks to start with. Can you still warp them? Sure. But it'* alot less likely with care.

Go slotted, not drilled. Many brake shops now refuse to turn drilled rotors because of the ricer craze, and the stress cracks most of the rotors produce when drilled.

Drilled rotors are for heacy braking and temp cycling conditions on a track, and are thrown away after every race.
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Old 08-10-2005, 02:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
...
Do you find yourself riding the brakes? Do you have a lot of hills in your area.? Quick stops where you are pushing hard on the brakes?
BillBoost37, I drive in the mountains of PA. and do a lot of hard braking on down hills. I push, let off, push let off on long down hills to add coolng to the rotors. This hasn't really helped. I do not often jack the brakes on hard. Only to avoid hitting deer. I run a midgrade brake pad from NAPA. I would like to track doen the problem, but it not working to well.

Luke
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Old 08-10-2005, 02:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke1027
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
the bolt pattern is 5x115
Thanks 1993 SLE ....

I am tired of the Rotors Warping on this Car every 5000 miles or so. So
bad it shakes my front end. Just put on new ones from NAPA (the only ones they offer - from China -- Cheap Junk!) and they are already Warped. Yes, I torqued them, 60lbs, then 80lbs, then the final torque of 100lbs., all in a star pattern.

So I am going to turn then myself and add (machine in) either holes or slots to see if it will help stop warping these rotors.

Any advice to corect this problem would be great.

Thanks for the reply.

Luke.
they offer 2 differnet sets of rotors the cheap ones which u might have got a the oem ones ur part # for the cheap ones are 4886631 and the oem rotors are 86631

performance rotors part # is PR86631L AND PR86631R
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Old 08-10-2005, 02:20 PM   #17
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Luke..

I, too, had the exact same issue as you with warping rotors every 5,000 miles on my 99. I feel your pain...BIG TIME. I finally bought a set with a one year warranty from Napa and I've gotten about 7,500 miles out of them so far with no shimming. If they do within one year they'll be seeing my face again.

Don't waste your time looking for braking products from RSM. If you look at their site, they don't sell rotors for 1997, 1998, and 1999 model years. I emailed them and asked them what'* up with that and they told me they were too busy to investigate. Furthermore, their site lists rear rotors for a Bonneville. LOL. I'm yet to find a Bonnie with rear rotors. I don't put much faith in those guys.

If you have the money to shell out, I'd go with the PowerSlots.

I agree with the comments about THROUGHLY cleaning all the rotor and wheel mating surfaces. I used starting fluid to clean all my surfaces (since it'* the closest thing to pure alcohol) and a wire brush. Furthermore, I let my lug nuts soak overnight in a clean coffee can full of 10w-30 Castrol. Don't use WD-40 as it'* a solvent, not a lubricant.
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Old 08-10-2005, 02:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vital49
Luke..
...

If you have the money to shell out, I'd go with the PowerSlots.

I agree with the comments about THROUGHLY cleaning all the rotor and wheel mating surfaces. I used starting fluid to clean all my surfaces (since it'* the closest thing to pure alcohol) and a wire brush. Furthermore, I let my lug nuts soak overnight in a clean coffee can full of 10w-30 Castrol. Don't use WD-40 as it'* a solvent, not a lubricant.
Thanks vital49 ... will heed to the advice ... in the garage right NOW!
I am taking these junk NAPA OEM crap back to be replace with the Performance grade.
Luke
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Old 08-10-2005, 03:02 PM   #19
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they offer 2 differnet sets of rotors the cheap ones which u might have got a the oem ones ur part # for the cheap ones are 4886631 and the oem rotors are 86631

performance rotors part # is PR86631L AND PR86631R
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Old 08-10-2005, 04:27 PM   #20
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You may want to check the bearing hub run-out also. You need a magnetic base dial indicator to do it, but if you were going to drill or slot rotors yourself then I'm guessing that you may have one or have access to one.

It'* easier to get a good reading by bolting a NEW rotor on without the wheel and take your reading off of the rotor. This will exaggerate any run-out that the hub may have. But this is also the same effect that a bent hub will have on a rotor during operation.

BTW, if you do check this, use a wrench to bolt the rotor on with the lug nuts backwards. That way you don't damage the nuts or rotor, and they don't need to be very tight for this check.

Also, as stated a few times already, you MUST clean any rust off of the hub and rotor matting surfaces. It only takes a tiny bit of rust at either one to throw the tip of the rotor way out of true.
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