No luck....I found a connector in front of the brake pedal next to a map light. This connector is black, has 2 rows of 8 slots, the side of connector closest to the brake pedal is wider then to other. It doesn't have pins (like a serial connector on a PC) but more like metal tabs. There are only metal tabs in some of the slots.

Here is a diagram of the connector:
1=pin 0=no pin

brake pedal side
0 1 0 1 1 0 0 1
1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1
steering column side

Also, which would be pin 4 & 8?

That'* the one!

Look closely at the connector (with a flashlight). Do you see any numbers and letters?

Try this:

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

OK, I'm getting closer. I jumped 4 & 8 and the locks cycled, then I press a button on both of the remotes that I bought, nothing happened. The new remotes don't work but the old crack remote still works. I open the old and new remotes and they appear to be different inside. My old remote has the battery mounted on the circuit board and the new remotes have a battery mounted on the bottom half of the plastic case. The old & new remotes look identical on the exterior however they have different GM #'* on the back of them. I was told when I bought them that all GM remotes are the same.

Sounds like the remote may not be compatible. Did you leave the jumper in while programming the remotes?

Well if the lock cycles.. then it'* in programmin mode. You stated that you're old remote will still work and not the new one? You probably summed up the answer that the newer remote isn't compatible since I tried ( out of fun ) to program Tamara'* keyless system on her 95 to see if it will except my 97'* remote ( hee hee.. so we can have a spare remote that can unlock both cars ), but it will not except it. humm... anyone know how to decifer the GM# number on the back so we all have a better understanding on what codes means what ( i.e. year and such relevant things ).

THE 1992 TO 1995 ARE ALMOST THE SAME. IN 96 THEY CHANGED TO A MORE ADVANCED TYPE REMOTE WITH THE PANIC BUTTON AND ETC. THOSE STAYED FROM 1996-1999 AND THEY CHANGED IT AGAIN IN 2000. wHEN ARE THEY GOING TO LEARN TO LEAVE WELL ENOUGH ALONE?(lol) ne WAYS, YOU WILL NEED TO GET A REMOTE THAT MATCHES THE NUMBERS ON THE BACK OF YOUR REMOTE. THE MODEL/FCC MUST MATCH AND THERE IS A LONG NUMBER ON THE BACK OF THE REMOTE THAT MUST MATCH ALSO. mINE FOR EXAMPLE IS 25602667,68,69. AT LEAST THE LONG ONE SHOULD MATCH.. hOPE THAT HELPS.

I _think_ that'* a listing of three possible part numbers: 25602667, 25602668 or 25602669. The difference is over which brand logo is on the front: the Pontiac shield or one of two other GM brands.

The important numbers may be the other ones. On my 1993 transmitter:

MODEL/FCC ID: BO0303T
DOC/MDC: 218 K1033

Read the above numbers real closely because the letter O and digit 0 can be hard to distinguish.

what exactly is involved when "jumping" the two terminals 4 and 8? Do you just run a wire betweenn the two? I don't have a keyless entry on my car and would like to buy a remote off ebay or something and then just reprogram. Let me know if I'm right. Thanks

Just so we're clear on this, your car needs to have the Keyless Entry system, not just power locks. It needs the controller box that listens for the remote signal and opens the car for you.

Having said that, if you bought the car used and got no keyless-entry remotes with it on your key ring, the car may still have Keyless Entry on it. Find your build sticker and look for option code AU0 (letter A, letter U, digit zero). I think the build sticker of RPO codes is in the trunk, either stuck to the underside of the lid or the top side of the spare-tire cover, under the trunk mat. Sometimes it'* on the inside of the glove-box lid.

Alternatively, I _think_ if you jumper top-right ALDL port to bottom-left ALDL port and the car clunks its locks at you, would that signify that it'* got Keyless Entry? Anybody know?

Anyhow, find the AU0 code and you're all set; you need only buy the correct remote for your year of car.