Reprogrammin your Remote - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-25-2003, 04:33 PM   #21
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P.*. I forgot your first questions...

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Originally Posted by Pontiac1983
what exactly is involved when "jumping" the two terminals 4 and 8? Do you just run a wire betweenn the two?
Yes. A bent paper clip will do. Actually the upper-right port is just a convenient ground connection; it'* grounding of the lower-left connection that puts the car into Learn mode.
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Old 03-26-2003, 12:32 AM   #22
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you need to go to the dealership. Give them you vin number. They can run it and see if your car has Keyless Entry. That is what i had to do with mine. I just asked them and then my friend (Drop Top Olds) used the paper clip to the pins. I found my remote at the boneyard for .50 and had it programmed in for nothing I am so glad to have yall here at bonneville club.
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Old 03-26-2003, 10:46 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94SSEgold
you need to go to the dealership. Give them you vin number. They can run it and see if your car has Keyless Entry.
1) Really? How far does their database go back, anyway?
2) I'm sure you probably can go to all that trouble, but really, just look in your trunk first. The car probably still has its RPO code sticker, and all you need to do is locate "AU0" on it, the option code for Keyless Entry.

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Originally Posted by 94SSEgold
I found my remote at the boneyard for .50 and had it programmed in for nothing.
Fifty cents??? Do they have any more?

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Originally Posted by 94SSEgold
I am so glad to have yall here at bonneville club.
Me too! Me too!
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Old 03-27-2003, 09:55 AM   #24
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i know that they at least go back to 1994 and i think 1992 is as far back as they go. NE ways, it is free, very worth the while. I can also look next time i go to the boneyard and see if they have any more. They are usually left in the cars. Also, this one place i frequent has like 25 SSEi Bonnies and a gazillion SE and SSE ones as well. Almost all the parts are prime for the pickens. I got a hold of one the other day that i was the 1st one to touch it, what a thrill. I nabbed almost everything i needed for my car!!! Only 20 bucks also. Ne ways, back to the subject, there is something in the VIN number that they can run and let you know whether your car has keyless entry on it already or not!!!
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Old 04-07-2003, 09:05 PM   #25
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Jumping the pins 4 & 8 causes the locks to cycle on my '96.
My original key flob GM/UTA# 25628814 & FCC# K0BUT1BT.
I purchased 2 used flob'* with GM/UTA# 10246215& FCC# ABO0204T and these wouldn't program.
Then I just purchased 1 new flob with GM/UTA# 25668603 & FCC# K0BUT1BT and it doesn't work either.
Does the GM# need to be exactly the same?
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Old 04-08-2003, 01:46 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heysport1
Jumping the pins 4 & 8 causes the locks to cycle on my '96.
Okay... The lock cycling is usually how it acknowledges learning mode; at this point you would press precisely one button (any button) on your new key fob, and the car should acknowledge you again. I suggest that if your original transmitter will work on this step, but the others you bought do not, then the others are unfortunately not the right ones (or else they're not working).

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Originally Posted by heysport1
My original key flob GM/UTA# 25628814 & FCC# K0BUT1BT.
It'* FOB, not FLOB, okay?

Quote:
Originally Posted by heysport1
I purchased 2 used flob'* with GM/UTA# 10246215& FCC# ABO0204T and these wouldn't program.
Okay... (I assume you checked the batteries, etc.)

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Originally Posted by heysport1
Then I just purchased 1 new flob with GM/UTA# 25668603 & FCC# K0BUT1BT and it doesn't work either. Does the GM# need to be exactly the same?
I would think so. You bought new... from a dealer? They looked it up and verified that you were buying the correct part number for your year and model? Does it look the same as your original?
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