Replacing the SIR coil after windshield wiper switch swap - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat

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Replacing the SIR coil after windshield wiper switch swap

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Old 05-16-2008, 02:59 AM
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Default Replacing the SIR coil after windshield wiper switch swap

Last week end the calliper of my windshiel wiper switch broke, leaving the lever in my hands while trying to signal a left turn. Why did they use cast aluminium for these piece of metal is a mystery as the savings on the metal gets completely cancelled out by the time needed to replace the thing.

Anyway, after rewinding the ribbon of the air bag coil assembly, instructions here tells to release it by 2.5 turns… and then to align the little arrows on the top of the device (or any other alignment helps built in the steering wheel column)

In my case the arrow is down to two turns… or three turns, that is a 20% deviation from advertized.

Which one is the most correct position ? I would hate it if Bonny would punch me in the noze without any good reason!

I have mounted it with 2 turns down as I guess the friction could have prevented the last half turn fro, being re-winded in the first place. I am replugging the cables under the dashboard while waiting for an answer.

Thanks for any help that might come.
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Old 05-17-2008, 03:03 AM
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I guess no one knows.

I will let it that way, then, and finsih to assemble the wheel.
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:29 AM
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Well, I had a similar problem -

Read the last post at this link:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ht=turn+signal

As for the spring, I wound it both directions ( to find the hard stops). I counted the number of turns (total), divided by two - then found the center point and lined up the arrows.

When I got it all back together, I jacked up the front end (so the front wheels would be off the ground) and started the car and SLOWLY turned the wheels both ways and checked for any resistance. No problem.

To answer your question about why they used cast metal, it appears that the entire switch assembly was intended to be replaced, which would include the bracket. I sort of cheated and only replaced the bracket with one from a donor car. But I had to get the whole switch / bracket / wiring harness at the junk yard. I carefully removed the bracket and reused my old switch.

And remember to lube the turn signal cam follower / groove...
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Old 05-19-2008, 03:53 PM
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I had already mounted the column back.

At any rate, I will have to take the assembly down again as I missed the bright/flash switch hook down the column.
Not very bright of me, I know.

I'll follow your advice and grease the groove.

I still have a hard time trying to understand why they had to make these switch systems so complicated. If reliability is an issue… I would rather have something that breaks twice as much, but only takes 2 minutes to replace: unplug the old one, plug the new one.

Thank you for passing by.
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Old 05-19-2008, 04:06 PM
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I agree - and from my observations, it seems that the lack of grease (or the grease was old and dried out) caused the cam follower to bind. This put abnormal stress on the casting, which became the weakest link. Make sure you dig the old grease out and clean the groove as much as you can...

I suppose they could make it easier to lube. Maybe install a grease fitting on the side of the column? Ha!

Seriously though, I think newer cars have gotten away from all the turn signal guts being mounted in the column. I think they have gone to the modules mounted to the side of the column.
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