Removing Starter - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-08-2008, 02:22 PM   #1
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I have a 94 SSEi and from what I can see, I'm gonna have to lift the engine up to get the starter out. Is there any less evasive ways to get it out? Also, the 2 starter thing. It was posted on here in another topic that only SSEi'* have the expensive of the 2. The guy at the part store said it could be either or? I bought the cheaper of the two. Any tips?

Off topic, but is there any way to check the Coils without taking it to the dealership?
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Old 02-08-2008, 02:26 PM   #2
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You bought the wrong starter. You need the gear-reduced starter. It provides more torque to turn the engine against the resistance of the double belts.

The starter will come out with a slight lift of a jack with a wood block on top (to even out the load) under the oil pan. You'll have to turn and rock the starter back and forth.
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Old 02-08-2008, 02:38 PM   #3
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Not what I wanted to hear, but thanks. SO just lift the engine up a little with a jack. I'm doing this outside in Michigan, after i got 14 inches of snow I got, awesome....

Any motor mounts or anything I should loosen to help, I'm guessing the passenger side top one.
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Old 02-08-2008, 02:42 PM   #4
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Don't loosen any. The mount you're talking about is the torque-axis mount, and will allow the motor to lift/tilt some. It'* just an oil-filled dampener, for the most part.

It won't take much lift to easily get it out. You have to turn the starter and wiggle it a bit.
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Old 02-08-2008, 02:46 PM   #5
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If it is anything like my 92 SSEi I was able to wiggle and turn the starter out from the top of the engine bay. So I didn't have to lift the engine at all.
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Old 02-08-2008, 03:02 PM   #6
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Well, From what I can see, I have to use an open end wrench to get the front bolt out, and lift the engine to get the back-side out. I know I sound like an idiot, but I'd rather ask you all then search the internet. Experience is better.
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Old 02-08-2008, 05:09 PM   #7
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I recently just replaced the starter on my 94 SSEi. I simply dropped the two front sub frame bolts and wiggled the starter out. That was the easiest way of doing it for me.
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Old 02-08-2008, 05:59 PM   #8
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Do any of you use a Swivel?

I have never lifted the engine, or unbolted the subframe... And R & R of the starter was a matter of minutes...

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Old 02-08-2008, 06:34 PM   #9
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There are two pieces to the plastic shield that goes around the starter. The lower one is easy - the front one not so easy. Make sure you have removed all the bolts from the front plastic piece, but don't loosen the big starter bolts until the front piece is out. The front plastic piece will be pinched by the starter if the starter is not up in place. If it is cold where you are working, get a heat gun or hair dryer and heat the plastic up. That will make it easier to twist the plastic while you pull and wiggle - which is what you have to do to get it off and on. You should not have to raise the motor. Make note how it comes off so you will know how to get it back on.

General starter r&r:

Jack up and safely support the front of the car.
Remove the big plastic splash shield that'* attached to the front crossmember under the front of the car. Most of the fasteners will be 10mm.
Remove the negative battery cable (5/16") and push it away so it can't touch the battery.
Remove the plastic cover (*) from the bottom of the bell housing and up around the starter (More 10mm bolts - wiggle and twist to get it out)
Unbolt the electrical connectors on the starter.
Remove the two vertical bolts that hold the starter up (15 mm?)
Drop the starter out (May have to twist and turn a bit.)
Make careful note of any shims that were used.
Clean the area where the starter contacts the engine/bellhousing (Starter ground connection is made there and it draws lots of current.)
Install the new starter with the same thickness of shims you removed.
Series II engines: Some cheap, rebuilt starters come with through-bolts that are too long - if yours extend more than 1/4" on the passenger end, you will need to cut the excess off the top bolt to clear the knock sensor.
Re-do the electrical connections.
Try the starter before lowering the car.
If the starter binds, or makes a loud noise, add shims until it sounds normal.
Re-install the splash shield(*)
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Old 02-09-2008, 08:49 PM   #10
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So I got it in. The one in my car is the direct drive. So I replaced it with the exact one. I don't know why they say you gotta use the Reduced Gear one. Autozone don't even sell one. Advanced Auto does for $179.99 with $50 core. Paid 92.97 for the direct drive at Advanced.

Thank You for your help.
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