now the brakes are holding it on as Ol' Timer predicted. Where is that access hole? My boyfriend works on old cars and can't find it. Is there a plate to remove? Where should we be looking for it? We have a brake tool and are ready to use it.

The wheel cylinder is blown. I have the replacement. Getting to it is the problem on this Southern car. Any other tips or service manual advice on this repair is greatly appreciated.

The head mechanic across the street from work said he sometimes drills out the rivets/studs, carriage bolts maybe, that hold springs or brake shoes them selves. The two rivets are obstrucked by the lower control arm. This might be why he said it would $250 for him to fix it. Is that the right approach? Is there an easy rear disk swap?

there is no acess hole on the drum brakes on these cars. you need to tap the shoes back because I'll bet they're grooved into the drum just like mine were.

btw, there are no easy to swap disc brakes either...

OK, I got one more suggestion for ya. The Parking(aka. Emergency) brake cable has a place where you can adjust it. I believe it is somewhere on the left underside of the car near the back door. If you can turn the barrel(or what ever that adjusting thingee is called) to loosen the cable, this should back the brake shoe off the drum. Also, before you do this, make sure you used some emory cloth around the hub. It could be a minute bit of rust around the hub that is preventing you from removing the drum. And once it is FINALLY off. Make sure you use that emory cloth or file, to remove any rust around the hole of the drum. Let us know how you made out.

I will try the e-brake thing. The car is at work so maybe monday

OK, everyone STOP!!!!
I just finished doing my own drums 2 weeks ago.
If the brake shoes are holding the drum tight, the solution is:
1) Go to Auto-Zone or equivalent auto-parts place...
2) Ask if they rent tools...
3) Tell them you need a brake-drum-puller, it'* a lot like a gear-puller. It has three arms with a tooth on the end of each, and a screw going through the center of it...
4) When you get home, place the pointed end of the bolt in the cup at the center of the hub...
5) Hook the teeth at the end of the arms behind the raised lip at the back of the drum...
6) Tighten the screw (this will require 3-4 hands to make sure the teeth don't slip off, so be sure to have a helper!), and the drum should come right off...

WARNING: The drum may still be rusted to the hub, if it is, it will come away with a loud CLANG!, it is best not to actually have your hands ON the drum itself, as this CLANG is accompanied by a considerable release of energy that can bruise your palms pretty good!

PS: Drums are not as delicate as these guys make out, I used a 3lb sledge to break them loose of the hub, just make sure to tap at the hub BETWEEN the studs, or at the side, FROM THE SIDE, at the front-most edge of the drum, DO NOT HIT THE COOLING VANES!!!!!

Well I'm back on the road again. Another mechanic came over and delivered the magic whack.

I still have some suspicious noises elsewhere in the brakes and suspension, but my Dad will be flying out next Friday for our drive back to Kentucky. We'll go through it when we get there.

Thanks for all the help!

So did the mechanic replace anything once he got the drum off?

Can you describe the noise to us?