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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-09-2003, 04:28 PM   #1
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Default Rear Door Locks

Hi, my rear passengers door lock is really wierd. I just replaced the little clip that holds on the lock arm, and if you press the button on the outside if the door is locked, it makes it so the door wont open. Then you have to take off the door panel and slide a little lever down and over, and it opens?

Any help would be good

Thanks,
Devon

I am starting to get this thing going LOL
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Old 01-09-2003, 05:08 PM   #2
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I _think_ I am following you here... Tell me if I have this right: The door is locked to begin with. If you press in the outside button, you can no longer unlock the door from the inside, right?

Sounds like the latch linkage is not retracting when you release the button (i.e. the outside button itself may pop out right away when you take your thumb off it, but the internal mechanism it'* pressing on is not letting go). If it isn't fully retracted, it will not allow the unlock mechanism to shift from the Locked to Unlocked position.

I think you need to get in there with some Liquid Wrench, WD-40 or similar really-light spray stuff and blast the door latch assembly nice and clean...
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Old 01-09-2003, 10:57 PM   #3
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Default Re: Rear Door Locks

Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected]
Hi, my rear passengers door lock is really wierd. I just replaced the little clip that holds on the lock arm, and if you press the button on the outside if the door is locked, it makes it so the door wont open. Then you have to take off the door panel and slide a little lever down and over, and it opens?

Any help would be good

Thanks,
Devon

I am starting to get this thing going LOL
It sounds to me like you damaged the door lock actuator boot while putting it back together.
Here'* how to remove the Rear Door panel (in case you don't know already):
http://www.friedpoodle.com/ba/viewtopic.php?t=321

Here'* the TSB on the Door Lock Actuator Boot fix:
http://www.friedpoodle.com/ba/viewtopic.php?p=1687#1687

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Old 01-10-2003, 12:02 PM   #4
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> It sounds to me like you damaged the door lock actuator boot
> while putting it back together.

If the original poster is still around, they can say for sure, but it doesn't sound like a power lock problem to me. It sounds more like that case where you're sitting in your car and you reach over to unlock (manually) the passenger'* door for somebody to get in, but at the same moment they push the outside door button too soon, and you can't get the inside lock to unlock: plunger won't pull up, or the slide won't slide, or whatever.

So anyhow, if it'* really cold outside or the latch is really dry, pressing the outside doorhandle button and letting go doesn't actually retract the button rod inside the door. It'* like you're still standing outside with your thumb on the button, and the latch can't unlock.

Usually a good blast of WD-40 into the latch or down on it through the window glass opening will free it up. Worst case I ever had was on an '84 Regal with a driver'* door that wouldn't unlock or open. I had to pull the upper interior panel off the door _while_ the door was closed, goop up the latch by dripping oil onto it with my fingers, then work free a little spring-loaded plunger thing on the underside of the latch before it would start working again. Wotta pain that was.
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