Rear auto ride system doesn't work. - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-21-2010, 11:46 PM   #11
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Disconnecting the sensor arm and raising it to mimic a low rear end for 17-27 seconds should invoke the pump to start. Lowering the arm for same time should cause a relief of pressure to lower car.

If the pump doesn't run for that initial 2-5 second burst after the key it ON for 35-55 seconds...
Check the fuse 5B in IP fuse block. 10 A. It provides power for ABS and CCR also if you have that. That circuit resets the Automatic Level Control Sensor to start the timing for the 35-55 second relief and pump up.

Other power comes through RH Maxifuse A5 30 Amp, but if you can run the pump from the inflator timer relay, that power has to be working. The Inflator uses the relay on passenger side junction block, so your relay is okay.

On the Automatic Level Control Sensor--with the arm attached--with the key ON you should have 12 volts positive on C which is RED. You should also have 12 volts on D which is BRN and is the ignition circuit that turns on with the ignitions. The C Red is hot all the time.

Lead A on the sensor should be ground.

Testing the sensor by bypassing it: calling for pump due to low vehicle height should cause Wire B Yellow to be grounded inside the sensor--it is hot with the same voltage a D through the relay in the passenger compartment. So using a fused!!! wire to ground B to a good ground should turn on the pump. If so, your sensor may be bad.

I troubleshot my ELS on my 98 from the front to the back when it quit working. I should have started at the rear instead. Got all the way to the back and I found a wire in the bundle that comes through the trunk floor grommet behind the rear wheel was broken inside due to continual flexing in the air stream behind the rear wheel. Outside of the plastic looked okay, but the copper was open.

The monkey wrench is that if you don't have 12 volt positive to line C Red, that might be because the Inflator timer relay is not switching the power back to that circuit when it shuts off. The power for that line goes into the Inflator relay on D RED and out on B Red when the timer is not calling for the pump to run. When the Inflation timer operates that line is switched.

Good luck.

Last edited by imidazol97; 05-22-2010 at 12:23 AM.
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Old 05-22-2010, 02:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
Ok. And if you weigh the system down it doesn't run.
No it doesn't run.
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
I'm not 100% sure, but I believe if you check the FSM you will find the switch located on the RR control arm for level is required for the initial system check purge/fill. Kinda sounds like you have a switch or connector issue.
I guess I'm going to have to figure out how to check the switch or bypass it to see if it will run the pump.
Quote:
Originally Posted by imidazol97 View Post
Disconnecting the sensor arm and raising it to mimic a low rear end for 17-27 seconds should invoke the pump to start. Lowering the arm for same time should cause a relief of pressure to lower car.
I tried this and it still doesn't start the pump.
.
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Originally Posted by imidazol97 View Post
.If the pump doesn't run for that initial 2-5 second burst after the key it ON for 35-55 seconds...Check the fuse 5B in IP fuse block. 10 A. It provides power for ABS and CCR also if you have that. That circuit resets the Automatic Level Control Sensor to start the timing for the 35-55 second relief and pump up.
I also checked the 5 b fuse and it was not blown.
Quote:
Originally Posted by imidazol97 View Post
On the Automatic Level Control Sensor--with the arm attached--with the key ON you should have 12 volts positive on C which is RED. You should also have 12 volts on D which is BRN and is the ignition circuit that turns on with the ignitions. The C Red is hot all the time.

Lead A on the sensor should be ground.

Testing the sensor by bypassing it: calling for pump due to low vehicle height should cause Wire B Yellow to be grounded inside the sensor--it is hot with the same voltage a D through the relay in the passenger compartment. So using a fused!!! wire to ground B to a good ground should turn on the pump. If so, your sensor may be bad. Good luck.
I'll have to check the wiring since as you say the pump will operate via the on switch in the trunk and there is enough pressure generated to fill a tire.
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