Hmm. I once saw someone saying something about spraying something near them and watch the idle?

Also. Was just looking up prices on new cats, being that I think this one is possibly clogging, boy wouldn't it suck if it wasn't. Anyways, looked up the magnaflow direct fit converter and saw that it just seems to SLIP into the two openings...now thats just fine and dandy, but it says, no welding and cutting required...now ok, cool. so how does the old one come out and what exactly holds the new one in? Here are the links to the site and a pic of mine to give you an idea of why I'm confused...do you just clamp it?

http://www.car-sound.com/02product/d...irectfit=23223
http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...pe=145&PTSet=A

A direct fit on your car should bolt to the manifold as yours does and then you cut the pipe behind the old cat and clamp.

It'* much lower cost to get a new universal and cut front and back pipes.

That appears to be the same cat that came out of Jinx. It was rather rattletacular.

Check shmebay for new cats as well. I'm bidding on one right now that is brand spanking new, AC Delco 2.5 in/out. Should last me quite a long time

Okay, my '93 got a new convertor some years back after the original clogged up, with really impressive results, and so of course for some time after that, I was all over the place here diagnosing Bad Convertor for practically every reported problem except clogged ashtrays. Having said that, I'm not sure that yours is necessarily clogged here, as the problem you mentioned (a loping idle) doesn't really resemble the usual symptoms.

When the cat'* clogged, idle is about the only time when the engine can breathe (um, exhale) well enough. Once you get on the gas, _then_ you start to get serious backpressure, loss of manifold vacuum, ridiculously high upshift speeds, loss of top speed, etc., but I'm not seeing that here.

Is there any way to measure the backpressure?

Oh...and I noticed that I can hear a WHISTLING when its idling...could that be my vacuum leak?

Okay, I have the factory manual right here in my lap...

1) Run engine until it'* in Closed Loop mode (i.e. fully warmed up)
2) Shut off engine
3) Remove the Oxygen sensor
4) With duct tape, block the vacuum inlet (rectangular port) on the intake manifold
5) Install the fuel pump pressure gauge in the nipple from Enrichment Tool J 26911
6) Install the gauge (I am NOT going to use the stupid factory-manual spelling "gage" here ) and nipple assembly into the O (I think they mean Oxygen sensor) port on the exhaust manifold
7) Start engine and run at 2500 rpm in "Park" and observe the backpressure
8 ) If backpressure measures 14 kPa (2 psi) or more, a restricted exhaust is indicated
9) Shut engine off
10) Inspect hte exhaust system for damaged or collapsed pipes
11) Inspect the muffler for heat distress or internal failure
12) If no other cause for excessive backpressure can be found, replace the convertor
13) Remove gauge and nipple assembly from intake manifold
14) Remove duct tape from vacuum inlet (rectangular port)
15) Intall Oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold

If replacing the convertor is required, the manual says to cut the old one as close to the welds on either end of the convertor as possible -- i.e. they don't tell you to remove the intermediate pipe. (Cuts would be on the car side of the welds, so that the old welds go out with the old convertor.)

Personally, I would be guided by whatever plumbing comes with the replacement convertor; I certainly wouldn't hack anything off until I know what'* going on in its place.

It could; sure... and it might be an overpressure leak rather than a vacuum draw. Track it down with a stethoscope if you can and see what you've got.

-- Andy