Questions about the 93 - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-26-2007, 06:21 PM   #21
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You say it got better after you changed the plugs, but then it came back. How long did it take to come back? Makes me wonder if something that you moved/changed helped the idle, but then moved/changed back somehow. I'd say check for a plug that was broken while installing it (I have seen them break in just such a way that the conductor and insulator are cracked, but the plug doesn't separate), but I think that would show itself under load as well, probably worse.

How are the vacuum lines? I know mine were a bit rotted.

With the lack of top end, it could be a clogging cat. Seems like that wouldn't affect it so much at idle though.

Hopefully a gearhead will filter through some of this and have better direction for you.
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:26 PM   #22
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Hmmm....

WIth the car running, unplug your MAF. Does the idle smooth out? If so, either the MAF is bad or is dirty. I didn't see if you replaced your air filter either.

Check for corrosion under your coil packs. May not help, but will not hurt either.

Access to a scantool?
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Old 08-27-2007, 12:44 AM   #23
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Yes, I replaced my air filter, and my MAF will be cleaned again. I cleaned it the day I got the car, but its probably coated in oil now anyways.

I will check the coils. My 89 had some nasty corrosion, so why not.

All the vacuum lines are excellent and have no cracks or anything. I have yet to clean out the intake, but will be done tomorrow

I replaced the PCV and its doing a little better it seems.
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Old 08-27-2007, 01:52 PM   #24
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Default Re: Several questions on the 93

Quote:
Originally Posted by wjcollier07
1. My headlight dimmer is a little wonky. If you even touch it, the dash lights will turn off, only works at the very last MM highest setting. Is there any way to clean this or is it just better to replace it, and if so, how do you do that?
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=50

From your description of the symptoms, the rheostat isn't just dirty; it'* broken. Replacement isn't too difficult, with a little patience, per the instructions above.

-- Andy
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:51 PM   #25
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Ok, great to know. Don't have the money for it right now, but will get to it when I do.

Next concern is that I recently remembered that there is some kinda transmission cooler line issue on/around this year? Something about bursting? Fires? etc? I checked the TSBs and see nothing about it.
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:59 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjcollier07
Ok, great to know. Don't have the money for it right now, but will get to it when I do.

Next concern is that I recently remembered that there is some kinda transmission cooler line issue on/around this year? Something about bursting? Fires? etc? I checked the TSBs and see nothing about it.
Yes, the offer has probably long since expired, but back in 1995 they had a recall on it. In very cold weather, hard acceleration could cause high pressure in the line leading to the trans cooler to blow apart the swaged fitting where the pre-bent cooler pipe meets the flexible hose. This could spray trans fluid on the exhaust manifold. Much merriment would ensue.

If I remember right, the recall campaign number was something like 95-1-68; the number was hand-written on a printed "Completed Campaign" sticker that the dealer would attach to the radiator support when the job was completed. In my case, the repair consisted of attaching a couple of worm-screw hose clamps to reinforce the line connections (where the rubber hoses meet the metal ones behind the cooler).

If your car has what look like aftermarket hose clamps on the cooler lines and/or a slightly faded "Campaign" sticker on the radiator support, it'* probably been fixed already.
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Old 08-31-2007, 12:01 PM   #27
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No sticker and one side of each cooler line has a regular clamp and then the other side has those factory crimped kind. So I can fix it by just putting some super tight clamps over those crimps?

Also, an update on my issues! Rough idle seems to have been solved after recent work.

I took apart the coils, cleaned away all corrosion/rust and reassembled with dielectric grease. Then took apart the battery cables and very meticulously cleaned and reassembled with DG. Then went to clean the throttle body thinking that my rough idle/loping idle was caused by the IAC being dirty. BOY was I wrong. My throttle body is SPOTLESS. I was like...WHAT THE?! That was a pleasant surprise, thats for sure. But none the less, went ahead and sprayed it down with throttle body cleaner and got a little bit of light grime out, but the throttle plate has absolutely NOTHING on it. Not even the phillips screws have any build up in their heads. But the MAF got cleaned again to remove any oil that might be left from that...episode...and I carefully cleaned the IAT, airbox and tube. I then checked the water level in the battery, found that it was only about half full. This is already one of the smallest batteries you can get for this car, and I was wondering why my volt gauge always read rather low. Problem completely gone. Reassembled everything and holy crap, I thought it started fast before! It now starts in about 1/439583th of a revolution I find it quite hilarious. I let it run for about 5 minutes and just marveled at how smooth it was idling and how quiet it was. It responds to RPM changes instantly and just revs SO smooth. Comes back down to idle SLOOWLY and then levels out with no falters. I am so happy, there isn't a word to describe it.

Exhaust still creaks...but hahaha, right now, I really don't care Next is seafoam! Holy crap, if its doing this well before seafoam, its gonna sound like a dang L47 after I'm done with it.
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Old 08-31-2007, 12:07 PM   #28
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I just SF'd both the SSE and the SSEi, and it does make a difference.

But before doing that, make "Mosquito control" signs, put them on the side of your car, and then do the 'foam. And make sure there are no low-flying planes near you. They WILL encounter 0/0 conditions
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Old 08-31-2007, 12:15 PM   #29
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hahaha, I live directly in the landing flight path for KPCZ 2 miles away Funny you should mention that

Not to mention that the property is currently under construction and I think the construction workers would kill me lmao.

So maybe I'll do it in late afternoon and check flight aware for any approaching flights.
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Old 08-31-2007, 05:02 PM   #30
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Yes after the Foam we took Sandrocks car for a Drive... Were were the Bug control for the day... And I'm sure we got em all within a 10 mile radius...

After it was all said and done the car idled, and ran smoother all the way around... I was surprised

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