Problems with HVAC and cold air in the winter - Page 6 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-19-2013, 01:14 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by 2kg4u View Post
He'* probably out enjoying how warm his car is.
I would too!
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:12 PM   #52
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LOL guys! Nope, I am stuck in this trap called employment!!! haha I have to work until 5. But, I need a drive clutch for my sled, so I may get to test it out tonight going to look at a clutch about 45 minutes away! Ill post up if I do go and drive it.
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Old 12-20-2013, 10:30 AM   #53
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UPDATE:
Drove the car for an hour and a half. I kept a close eye on the engine temp guage. It did go up to 200, but then would fall back to 180. It continually went from 180 to 200, and then back down. I guess each cycle was around 30 seconds to a minute.

The heat inside the vehicle was a bit warmer, but it still never got the air inside the car hot when driving that long. The heat is still sub-par, and my feet never warmed up while having the heat on high and driving for that long.

What now? Something still isn't working right.
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Old 12-20-2013, 10:46 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FirebirdStud View Post
It did go up to 200, but then would fall back to 180. It continually went from 180 to 200, and then back down.
You've probably done it right, but as a quick check, is the thermostat in the groove in the rubber o-ring with rubber above and below it to seal? A poster long ago has just put the thermostat next to the o-ring and the leakage made the temperature bounce around.

What is happening with the temperature at the heater inlet and outlet tubes. With the car "hot" are they both very hot with the outlet slightly cooler having lost heat to the air inside the HVAC box? Or is one very cool due to slow water flow and the water getting cooled down a lot by the air flow over the heater coils? Clogged heater?
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Old 12-20-2013, 10:56 AM   #55
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Or...his heater core is clogged up.

I didn't notice if you mentioned it or not, but how long has it been since the cooling system has been flushed?
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Old 12-20-2013, 11:17 AM   #56
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Could be a plugged heater core or an improperly installed stat, but the flucuating temps point me more toward air in the system. Does the thermostat housing have a bleeder screw on it? Sometimes it takes a couple drive/bleed cycles to get all the air out.
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Old 12-20-2013, 04:10 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imidazol97 View Post
You've probably done it right, but as a quick check, is the thermostat in the groove in the rubber o-ring with rubber above and below it to seal? A poster long ago has just put the thermostat next to the o-ring and the leakage made the temperature bounce around.

What is happening with the temperature at the heater inlet and outlet tubes. With the car "hot" are they both very hot with the outlet slightly cooler having lost heat to the air inside the HVAC box? Or is one very cool due to slow water flow and the water getting cooled down a lot by the air flow over the heater coils? Clogged heater?
Yes, the T Stat is installed correctly. I ran it and bled out the air on the T Stat housing until only pure anitfreeze came out.

I did not feel the heater core inlet and outlet tubes. The next time I drive I will feel those.

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Or...his heater core is clogged up.

I didn't notice if you mentioned it or not, but how long has it been since the cooling system has been flushed?
I did an intake on the car back in 2009ish, and it was flushed then. I have also installed a waterpump last fall, and I lost quite a bit of fluid at that point too, so it is mostly new fluid.

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Could be a plugged heater core or an improperly installed stat, but the flucuating temps point me more toward air in the system. Does the thermostat housing have a bleeder screw on it? Sometimes it takes a couple drive/bleed cycles to get all the air out.
Yes, there is a bleeder screw on top of the T Stat housing. That is where I bled out the air after installing the T Stat. Should I bleed it again? Hot or cold motor, or does it matter?

I did notice that the old T Stat that came out had a **** hole in it. The new one I installed does not. Does that matter?
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Old 12-20-2013, 05:34 PM   #58
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The hole just helps in purging air out of the system. Some people here usually drill a small one.

If your temp goes from 200 to about 190-180 ish on a regular interval, then the t-stat is doing its job. Cooling system is function properly.

Now, are you able to feel both the heater core hoses while the engine is warmed up? A infrared thermometer would work wonders here. Just want to compare the temp of both heater hoses. I'm wondering if your heater door is opening all the way.
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:01 PM   #59
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Quote:
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The hole just helps in purging air out of the system. Some people here usually drill a small one.

If your temp goes from 200 to about 190-180 ish on a regular interval, then the t-stat is doing its job. Cooling system is function properly.

Now, are you able to feel both the heater core hoses while the engine is warmed up? A infrared thermometer would work wonders here. Just want to compare the temp of both heater hoses. I'm wondering if your heater door is opening all the way.
Good to know that the T Stat is working now.

I didn't drill the hole. I will live without it I guess.

I dont have an infrared thermometer unfortunately. When I drive the car I will feel it to see if there is a noticable difference.

If by heater door you are refering to the actuator above the programmer, that is working great. I inspected it again, and goes through the full range of travel. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:15 PM   #60
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Hope your not confusing it with the mode door.
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