Problems with HVAC and cold air in the winter - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-27-2009, 11:23 PM   #11
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I can understand that. Did you check at Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto for that part. I've found prices there, even with shipping to be well below the parts stores.
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:40 PM   #12
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I can understand that. Did you check at Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto for that part. I've found prices there, even with shipping to be well below the parts stores.
That is a great site! I looked it up, and it is actually 3.79 more before shipping. So they have excellent prices. (Working for GM the part is 120 bucks, and I can get it for 59. The discount is great, but the 60 bucks is still pretty steep) :(
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:46 PM   #13
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Ya, if your getting a big discount, it'* a bit hard to beat that. $60 is still a bit steep. Have you tried moving the lever by hand to see if it binds up.
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:50 PM   #14
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Ya, if your getting a big discount, it'* a bit hard to beat that. $60 is still a bit steep. Have you tried moving the lever by hand to see if it binds up.
I have not disconnected the lever from the actuator, but when I use the screwdriver to gently coax it, it feels smooth and doesn't give any added resistance through the motion of going from all the way to the left to all the way to the right...

I know, this thing is puzzling..
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:53 PM   #15
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I've been going threw my service manuals and I'm not finding much on this. Sorry.
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:05 AM   #16
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I've been going threw my service manuals and I'm not finding much on this. Sorry.
story of my life... I have been picking some mechanics brains I know and I have not come up with anything either... hence I thought I would try this site.... maybe I would get lucky, maybe not. lookin like the latter, huh? haha
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:10 AM   #17
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I would have to say, the reason why there'* little info on this is because it'* not a serviceable part. It don't work, it gets replaced. Best I could come up with is pull it out and check the connections. Determine how many volts it gets and apply that to the actuator and see how it moves. If it'* not moving smoothly then, it'* shot. See if you can open it up, it might just have dirty contacts.
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:10 PM   #18
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I would have to say, the reason why there'* little info on this is because it'* not a serviceable part. It don't work, it gets replaced. Best I could come up with is pull it out and check the connections. Determine how many volts it gets and apply that to the actuator and see how it moves. If it'* not moving smoothly then, it'* shot. See if you can open it up, it might just have dirty contacts.
yup, that is why I am thinking too. Ugh I just wish I knew if it is possible for it to move on its own, or if it is the programmer that is making it do wrong things..
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:27 PM   #19
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yup, that is why I am thinking too. Ugh I just wish I knew if it is possible for it to move on its own, or if it is the programmer that is making it do wrong things..
If I don't follow what the question is here, I apologize.

The actuators sometimes fail like this with a crack and the nylon gear slips on the hub. The actuator loses it'* reference points when the slipping occurs.

If I recall there was one way to reset the references on the actuators and that was to set the controls at 60 and then start the car and wait a while. Then move the temp controls to 90 and let the actuators find the other end of their travel. Then the programmer should be able to determine points in between relative to those two extremes. But when the slipping occurs, nothing moves. Give a little push to the arm and the actuator can move appearing normal.

You might try repairing the actuator for a cheap, albeit temporary fix with some epoxy or polyurethane construction adhesive.

This is not my picture. It was on the internet somewhere. My thanks to the owner.


http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k1...uator015-1.jpg
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Problems with HVAC and cold air in the winter-actempdooractuator015-1.jpg  

Last edited by imidazol97; 10-29-2009 at 04:29 PM.
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Old 10-29-2009, 06:23 PM   #20
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If I don't follow what the question is here, I apologize.

The actuators sometimes fail like this with a crack and the nylon gear slips on the hub. The actuator loses it'* reference points when the slipping occurs.

If I recall there was one way to reset the references on the actuators and that was to set the controls at 60 and then start the car and wait a while. Then move the temp controls to 90 and let the actuators find the other end of their travel. Then the programmer should be able to determine points in between relative to those two extremes. But when the slipping occurs, nothing moves. Give a little push to the arm and the actuator can move appearing normal.

You might try repairing the actuator for a cheap, albeit temporary fix with some epoxy or polyurethane construction adhesive.

This is not my picture. It was on the internet somewhere. My thanks to the owner.


http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k1...uator015-1.jpg
This is what I am thinking is wrong with my car. I ordered the actuator from the dealership, so Saturday when I pull mine out and look at it, if it is indeeded F-ed up then I can just put the new one in and be done with it.

I played with it again today with the Tech 2 computer at work, and it looks like it does lose its frame of reference for where it is at, making me think that the plastic gear is cracked. We shall see on Saturday!

Thanks again to everyone'* help, and Ill post up results come this weekend.
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