Absolutely....much better.

If I understand it correctly, your plug wires start to arc around 4k rpm? That should not happen, regardless of the engine speed. It sounds like you need new wires. Where are they arcing? Against ground, each other, the coil packs? What brand wires did you buy, do you recall? Taylor wires have caused some problems. If they're arcing near the coil packs, check those over carefully for cracks and rusting on the terminals.

I also agree with Bill. Get the gas line fixed.

100% backup on what Archon and Bill say.

Get the wires replaced and the fuel line repaired/replaced. Then, if you still have problems, we'll go from there.

Many times a car will develop a series of issues over time that seem to all manifest all at the same time. You just have to work through them one at a time.

Replaced all the spark plug wires. It has the same problem they arc off on each other the wires are brand new. Same problem with the acceleration. When my UIM wewnt out i never replaced the spark plugs also. But I never had problems till like 6k miles after it went out......

Against each other.

With new plug wires, they are arcing out on each other???

What brand of wires are you using, I've never seen a new set be that bad.

I agree, that is extremely rare. Problems internally with a broken conductor, yeah...but not an external problem. At what point exactly are the wires arcing against each otherr?

Thank you for clarifying your typing

Not saying this is your problem for sure, but it is something to consider. When I bought my '95 a couple of years ago, like yours, it had a very light ticking noise that seemed to disappear as the engine speed increased. That little tick was picked up by my knock sensor(*) and whenever I tried to accelerate, the car would bog down because the computer would retard the spark thinking it was hearing spark knock (detonation). This reduction in timing is called KR (Knock Reduction). If I remember correctly, as much as 20 degrees of timing was pulled under certain conditions. The car was barely driveable. If this is your problem, a scan tool connected while you drive will provide a continuous readout of KR by degrees of timing. If you don't have access to a scan tool, accelerate uphill somewhere and note how the car responds. Then, crawl under the car and disconnect both knock sensors. (They use squeeze-to-release, single pin connectors.) Unplugging them will set a code causing the check engine light to come on. It will also cause the computer to retard the spark by a default 10 degrees. That alone will make the car sluggish, but it will not get worse as you accelerate. If the acceleration improves up the same hill with the sensors unplugged, you will know that'* your problem.

The factory service manual and any good mechanic will tell you to fix this problem you must fix the mechanical noise that is causing the false KR (knock reduction). I knew that my problem was a valve train noise and was willing to take a chance running without my knock sensors. I wired in dummy resistance loads to ground in place of my sensors and have been running that way for about 18 months now. On hard acceleration under heavy load, I will occasionally hear some light spark knock. This is harmful to the engine if it happens often, but I drive gently, rarely accelerating heavily, and am willing to make the tradeoff for better performance. The difference in performance is stunning. A scan tool on my engine always shows zero KR, meaning full advance is always available for acceleration. I run higher octane fuel (89 or 90) to compensate, and am quite happy with the results. In the long run, though, this "fix" is likely to take a toll on the pistons, and possibly the fire rings in the head gaskets. Therefore, I cannot recommend that others do the same. Better to fix what is making the ticking noise in the first place. BTW, a leaking or cracked exhaust manifold can make a ticking noise just like a valve train component.