Ok to drive with bad ball joints? - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-23-2006, 10:21 AM   #21
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You're right I guess...that is BS. It must be why they ask for your zipcode. If I had the extra money I'd help you out. Unless you want to send me the money first I can get them at the store in town and ship them to you with the corner lamp you wanted

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Old 07-23-2006, 10:51 AM   #22
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YOU should not drive on worn ball joints. replace them, it'* the only answer
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Old 07-23-2006, 11:28 AM   #23
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^ I think he knows that by now
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Old 07-23-2006, 01:27 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonnie94ssei
You're right I guess...that is BS. It must be why they ask for your zipcode. If I had the extra money I'd help you out. Unless you want to send me the money first I can get them at the store in town and ship them to you with the corner lamp you wanted

Exactly the Same here Pete

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Old 07-23-2006, 02:22 PM   #25
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Why don't you call the local store & ask why the prices are so different? Maybe it'* just a pricing error in the local stores computer. You could also try a Zip Code for another town near you with the same store.
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Old 07-23-2006, 02:48 PM   #26
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I beat the system. I put in a random zip code from Conneticut and I got the price listing that the rest of you guys have. Then I proceeded to checkout and entered my real street address and zip, and the whole time the price didn't change. So when I placed the order its coming to me at $75.99.

I could call and figure out why there'* such a price difference, but its Sunday and I need the parts ASAP and I dont feel like arguing with a representative when I could just easily put in a different zip code.
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Old 07-23-2006, 04:34 PM   #27
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Glad you got it straightened out! Keep us posted on your progress!
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Old 08-05-2006, 01:46 PM   #28
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Im about to do my ball joints. The set I currently have on is bolted on so I dont have to go through the bullshit of popping rivets. Can I change them out without removing the controll arm? It seems like an easy bolt on bolt off procedure but I dont know about any "castle nut", I guess I will have to see when I go under there. Any tips will do, Thanks.
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Old 08-05-2006, 02:29 PM   #29
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Here'* what im talking about:

http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00736.JPG

Theres no room to remove that castle nut even if i remove the caliper and rotors. Rant: Stupid Chiltons doesn't even have a word on ball joints. This thing is going to the trash!
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Old 08-05-2006, 03:42 PM   #30
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It looks like you have TRW on there already

You can definitely do it without removing the CA. That castle nut will come off with a wrench. There isn't much room in there to use a socket but a wrench will work just fine. Then just use a pickle fork tool if you have it (I used an old adjustable wrench) and put it under the knucle and pound it so the ball joint shaft starts to pop out. You'll have to use a long pry bar of some kind to pry it out completely.

I removed the CA since they came off easily and I didn't have anything long enough to pry the CA down to remove the shaft from the hole. It was easier to get it out for me, and then drill out the rivets.

Since you don't have the rivets I would think you could just remove that castle nut, remove the three nuts/bolts on the bottom, and the push the CA down to remove the whole b-joint. Reinstall is easy, just torque the 3 nuts on the bottom to 50ft/lb. I didn't use a torque wrench for the castle nuts since it'* impossible. I just tightened the hell out of it with a wrench and adjusted the tightness to get the cotter pin in.
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