Ok to drive with bad ball joints? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-21-2006, 09:31 PM   #11
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Yeah, thanks Bonnie94ssei, seems I did leave a few things out like the end links and removing the arm! Guess I just got a little nuts thinking about what could happen. Thanks for the assist!
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Old 07-21-2006, 10:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Yeah, thanks Bonnie94ssei, seems I did leave a few things out like the end links and removing the arm! Guess I just got a little nuts thinking about what could happen. Thanks for the assist!
No sweat. I'm glad I did these last week so I could help out. I know that some people leave the control arms on the car when they drill the rivets out, so I thought that was how you were describing it.

Also, Boreas, when you are done with the ball joints and are reassembling everything, you'll find you will need to jack the CA up to get the endlinks back on. Once the rivets are out, the rest is a walk in the park. This is a day project if you have the right tools. It can be a pain but it'* not that bad with the right tools. I didn't have the right size drill bit the first day so it took me a day and a half. I'd do it again if I had to. It'* worth saving the money and gaining some knowledge.
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Old 07-22-2006, 01:42 AM   #13
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They were done once before, hence they are currently bolted to the car instead of being rivited on. So that should make the job easier I assume.

35 dollars at advance!?! I talked to my mechanic and he said that cheapies come in at 65 dollars while the premium ones were 120. You sure they are of high quality?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...+Joint&ptset=A

And while were on the subject, is there anything else I need checked out in regards to my suspension so I dont loose a wheel? I just learned a couple of days ago that such a thing like a ball joint needs to be replaced as part of maintinence, I dont want any unexpected surprises later.
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Old 07-22-2006, 04:26 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boreas
35 dollars at advance!?! I talked to my mechanic and he said that cheapies come in at 65 dollars while the premium ones were 120. You sure they are of high quality?

The autozone cheapies are under 25 bucks for you car the lifetime warranty ones are just a few bucks more.
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Old 07-22-2006, 10:48 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boreas
They were done once before, hence they are currently bolted to the car instead of being rivited on. So that should make the job easier I assume.

35 dollars at advance!?! I talked to my mechanic and he said that cheapies come in at 65 dollars while the premium ones were 120. You sure they are of high quality?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...+Joint&ptset=A

And while were on the subject, is there anything else I need checked out in regards to my suspension so I dont loose a wheel? I just learned a couple of days ago that such a thing like a ball joint needs to be replaced as part of maintinence, I dont want any unexpected surprises later.
TRW is one of the leading brands in OEM replacement parts. They are $35 but don't let the price fool you, they aren't crap. I wouldn't spend any less than that. I know stores have ones for $18 ("TreadSaver') but I wouldn't trust those at all, especially without a warranty. IOW, DON'T BUY GENERIC. Shops are going to charge you more all the time. MOOG is another brand you can go with.

Also, check your tie rod ends for any play as well while you're in there.
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Old 07-22-2006, 02:11 PM   #16
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TRW = Excellent product.
Drive on bad ball joints = very very very very dangerous.

They can and do fail when you're driving. And they will fail when there'* the most stress on them, like a tight turn. So when they fail, you're in a situation that you *really* don't want to be in.

My buddy that I sold my 78 Bonneville to had one go on a winding mountain road. He'* lucky he didn't wreck. Please don't take the risk because these things DO fail, and when they go on a front wheel, you basically get one wheel that can flop around in any direction while you're trying to control your car, typically in a turn.

Fix it before you drive it!
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Old 07-22-2006, 02:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonnie94ssei
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boreas
They were done once before, hence they are currently bolted to the car instead of being rivited on. So that should make the job easier I assume.

35 dollars at advance!?! I talked to my mechanic and he said that cheapies come in at 65 dollars while the premium ones were 120. You sure they are of high quality?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...+Joint&ptset=A

And while were on the subject, is there anything else I need checked out in regards to my suspension so I dont loose a wheel? I just learned a couple of days ago that such a thing like a ball joint needs to be replaced as part of maintinence, I dont want any unexpected surprises later.
TRW is one of the leading brands in OEM replacement parts. They are $35 but don't let the price fool you, they aren't crap. I wouldn't spend any less than that. I know stores have ones for $18 ("TreadSaver') but I wouldn't trust those at all, especially without a warranty. IOW, DON'T BUY GENERIC. Shops are going to charge you more all the time. MOOG is another brand you can go with.

Also, check your tie rod ends for any play as well while you're in there.
I also use TRW products and highly reccomend them

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Old 07-22-2006, 07:43 PM   #18
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Am I seeing the right thing? THat link I showed you has the TRW'* for $100 dollars each.
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Old 07-23-2006, 12:20 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boreas
Am I seeing the right thing? THat link I showed you has the TRW'* for $100 dollars each.
That link showed TRW on top of the list for $34.95. Lower front ball joint. That'* what I got. Same thing at Advanceautoparts.com. The only one on there I see for $101.95 is "Rare Parts" ball joint, and the bolt pattern isn't even right.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...ype=66&ptset=A
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Old 07-23-2006, 01:55 AM   #20
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I no lie:



It must be a local thing. If thats true then this is bullshit!

Anybody want to do me a favor and order it in my stead and send it my way? 200 bucks vs 70 for buying in another part of the country is bullshit. I would greatly appreciate the favor.
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