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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-10-2007, 04:24 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riding
...Not really looking forward to taking off the dash to fix it....
Read the article on the link I provided. You don't need to pull the dash unless you just have a burning desire to do so.

To see the arm for the airmix door, you have to peep through a nickel-size hole on the left side of the black steel horizontal dash brace that is visible when the glove box is removed.
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Old 10-10-2007, 10:29 PM   #12
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The 93 auto control has self-diagnostics doesn't it?
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Old 10-11-2007, 09:04 AM   #13
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yep, learned about it from this very forum.
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Old 10-11-2007, 09:49 AM   #14
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There'* at least five of us here that have changed actuators w/o pulling the dash. Although if you really wanna..I can tell you....it'* not bad.
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Old 10-12-2007, 09:17 AM   #15
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I have no real desire to pull the dash. That was just the way I said it.
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Old 10-12-2007, 10:07 AM   #16
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Quote:
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I have no real desire to pull the dash. That was just the way I said it.
That'* cool..
You don't need to....that makes it all good.
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Old 10-13-2007, 06:36 AM   #17
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For the ones who have done the actuator repair (not the ghetto fab redneck fix), is there a write up that doesn't include mentioning dash removal?

Since we keep having a few summer days here in Indy, I might be able to do a real fix before the temps remind me of my ex wife.

Keep in mind that my mechanical experience is limited to brakes, tune ups, and oil changes.
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Old 10-13-2007, 02:52 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riding
For the ones who have done the actuator repair (not the ghetto fab redneck fix), is there a write up that doesn't include mentioning dash removal?

Since we keep having a few summer days here in Indy, I might be able to do a real fix before the temps remind me of my ex wife.

Keep in mind that my mechanical experience is limited to brakes, tune ups, and oil changes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSE Motorhead
Blinkage and no heat is typical of a toasted airmix actuator. a good way to verify this is to pull out your glove box, get a flashlight, and look through the hole in the dash brace while operating the temp up & down. You should see smooth steady movement of the door arm. Any hesitation or jerky motion (or lack of motion) means your airmix actuator is not long for this world. Here'* a link to an article with pictures that will help 'splain what I'm talkin' 'bout. Picture 18 is a decent image of the hole you need to look through. (You can't see this without removing the glove box).

http://trialsnuts.com/ecc.pdf

When you decide perform and exorcism on your airmix actuator, this article will be somewhat valuable.
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Old 10-14-2007, 06:52 AM   #19
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Yea, I read through that and the way it describes it, I'm under the impression that the dash is already off. Also seems like I'll need to remove the heater core (i could be readign it wrong).

Given my experience I don't feel comfortable with that much removal on my own.

That'* why I was asking if there was a write up starting with the dash still in tact to see if it'* any less intimidating.

With a person on the spot who knows the process, I can do it and ask questions to make sure I don't screw up. Solo, I'd be as nervous as a criminal in a donut shop.
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