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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-17-2007, 10:54 AM   #1
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Default New SSEi questions and help

Hello all, I just picked up a 1993 SSEi, really in pretty good shape, 113k miles, clean body, decent interior (few broken plastic pieces, not a big deal). Unfortunately it didn't come with an owners manual, so I have a few questions.

1) I like to do all maintenace items when I buy a used car (no matter what the old owner said about what'* needed). So I am going to change engine oil, tranny fluid/filter, supercharger oil. Should I do plugs and wires? What size plugs? Any other stuff I should change/check?

2) Oil grades, does the supercharged engine take a different oil grade? What viscosity? What about the supercharger oil? Also, where is the plug for the supercharger?

3) The power antenna mast is broken, what'* the best option, buy aftermarket? Junkyard?

4) Is there a "closed" position on the sun roof? I push the button, it auto retracts, push to close, it goes past closed and pops up the back, push the other way, goes back to auto retract.

5) This is the bigger one, I've done some searching but haven't found what I'm looking for. The traction control light on the button stays on all the time, I've found this means there'* a problem. If I'm not mistaken, the TC system can cycle the brakes, right? If so, it'* doing it intermittantly when I try to accerate too fast at around 70-75 mph, feels like a stuttering from the front. Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting?
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Old 01-17-2007, 11:05 AM   #2
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Default Re: New SSEi questions and help

1) I like to do all maintenace items when I buy a used car (no matter what the old owner said about what'* needed). So I am going to change engine oil, tranny fluid/filter, supercharger oil. Should I do plugs and wires? What size plugs? Any other stuff I should change/check?

Plugs and wires for sure if you don't know how old they are. A popular plug for you would be the NGK TR-55 V-Power. Never use bosch, never use platinum (plats are bad news with supercharged/turbo motors). Gap to .060" with a stock SC pulley.
Use ONLY GM supercharger oil. Check Techinfo for the change procedures and tips.
You may also want to consider an O2 sensor if you don't know how old it is. Removing the Throttle body for a good cleaning will also help. Procedure is in Techinfo, and you'll need a new TB gasket.


2) Oil grades, does the supercharged engine take a different oil grade? What viscosity? What about the supercharger oil? Also, where is the plug for the supercharger?

Use what the oil cap tells you. Synthetic will do fine. Many of us run it for 5-6k miles, but use a GOOD (non-fram) filter if you do that. GM supercharger oil only. Get it at the dealer, or from one of our vendors. Get two bottles. You'll have a spare that way. The procedure is in Techinfo. Your drain is on top of the nosedrive assembly, just behind the alternator bracket. Hex head plug. Again, this procedure is in Techinfo, link at the top of the page.


3) The power antenna mast is broken, what'* the best option, buy aftermarket? Junkyard?

Best option by far is the junkyard. Try for a 98 or 99. You don't have to disassemble from the outside. Take a ratchet and 10mm socket with you, remove the brackets on the inside of the trunk, and pull it into the trunk. That simple. 2-minute, 5-beer job. Drill the rivets on the donor antenna. Open it up and remove all the old grease. Re-pack with white lithium grease, and use machine screws and nuts to put it back together. Lightly oil the mast with 3-in-1 oil or a silicone/teflon based lube when you get it working, especially in CO. It'll help repel moisture. Doing this extra hour of work will give you years of good service.

4) Is there a "closed" position on the sun roof? I push the button, it auto retracts, push to close, it goes past closed and pops up the back, push the other way, goes back to auto retract.
Pushing on the forward half will make it go to vent. Pushing the back half will close it again. Push the back half again, and it'll open fully automatically. Push the front half again, and hold, it should STOP when fully closed without popping up in vent. If it'* not stopping at each step, we'll troubleshoot further.

5) This is the bigger one, I've done some searching but haven't found what I'm looking for. The traction control light on the button stays on all the time, I've found this means there'* a problem. If I'm not mistaken, the TC system can cycle the brakes, right? If so, it'* doing it intermittantly when I try to accerate too fast at around 70-75 mph, feels like a stuttering from the front. Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting?


Traction control on your car uses ONLY applied braking, as opposed to later years that add engine torque management (retarded timing) to control traction. It can be very expensive to repair, but isn't active when the warning light is on, and isn't active at those speeds. I suspect you are misfiring, and that'* your problem. In the meantime, it wouldn't hurt to disconnect, clean, and dielectric grease the wheel speed sensors (WSS) at each hub (all 4). Sometimes it'* that simple.
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Old 01-17-2007, 11:28 AM   #3
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1. Test the wires with a ohmmeter or multi meter. They should be between 3-5k ohms per foot of length, I think. Plugs are never a bad idea. Avoid Bosch. Our L67s don't like them too much. Use the guide thing at Wal-mart or your auto store to find a part number, I can't remember what it is for the AC Delco plugs. Check the PCV valve (under the black metal square on top of the SC), if it rattles, it'* fine, if not, it'* really cheap at Autozone. Give it a little time to figure your gas mileage. If you're not averagine between 17-20 combined, you might need a new O2 sensor. Again, avoid Bosch, they have a tendency to die in a few months. AC Delco is the way to go there.

2. 10W-30 motor oil. I like Mobil1. SC oil is available from dealerships or a few places online like zzperformance.com and rollingperformance.com. It is called supercharger oil and is natural in composistion. Don't put motor oil in it. The plug is behind the SC snout about halfway down. You will need a 4.5mm allen wrench. It should be filled to the bottom of the plug threads.

3. A yard will have antennas. Don't look for ones that are still up. New ones can be found on eBay from time to time.

4. Closed is between vent and open. Normally it should pause if not require a seperate push to pass the closed position. If you have the back popped open and you tap the button to drop the back, does it stop when it'* closed or does it keep opening?

5. My guess is a wheel speed sensor is dying.
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Old 01-17-2007, 11:52 AM   #4
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Thanks for the quick help guys.

Willwren, I looked in techinfo before posting and didn't see a SC oil change subject. May be operator error though.

The sunroof doesn't appear to pause, goes from vent into retract. Maybe a position sensor bad?

Willwren, on the traction control you are talking the warning light on the dash? It'* not lit up, only the little light on the button. Can I test the wheel speed sensors without an oscilliscope? I assume it just produces a pulsed signal.

A new question, is ebay/junkyard the best bet for finding an owners manual? I'm sure there'* lots in there (I read something about a HUD adjustment on one thread, no idea where that is...)
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Old 01-17-2007, 12:01 PM   #5
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http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=56
Some people use spray bottle pumps with good success. The thread size ins't 1/4 NPT as the article states. We'll fix that.

Someone will have to dig into the FSM (factory service manual) for you on that sunroof.

When you press the traction control button, does the warning light on the dash come on to tell you it'* disabled?

ebay junkyard for the manual. Or from www.helminc.com which is the source for new factory service manuals also.

Your HUD controls are to the left of the steering wheel. Height adjust and dim adjust, as well as english/metric.
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Old 01-17-2007, 12:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
When you press the traction control button, does the warning light on the dash come on to tell you it'* disabled?
No, pushing the button has no effect that I can tell. The light on the button never changes, and no lights change on the dash.
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Old 01-17-2007, 12:18 PM   #7
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When you push that button, it should disable the TC system, the light should change on the button, and the TRACTION OFF should illuminate on the dash. I suspect a burnt or removed traction lamp.

Mine is removed on the 93. Will be soon on the 95.
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Old 01-17-2007, 12:23 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren

Mine is removed on the 93. Will be soon on the 95.
Ok, I give...why?
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Old 01-17-2007, 12:25 PM   #9
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Because the traction and ABS don't work on my 93 any more, and the component that failed is very expensive. I'd rather do without.

ABS works on my 95, but not traction control. Same story there.

I'd rather KNOW it'* not working than learn to rely on it, and have it fail when I'm least expecting it. This is my personal choice based on the expense of repairs and the ages of my cars. You'll have to make your own decision, once we figure out if your system even works.

My 93 rarely sees bad weather anyway.
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Old 01-17-2007, 12:50 PM   #10
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I recomend the Napa Gold oil filter # 1040. It'* an excellent oil filter and has an anti-drainback valve. ~$7

Beldin wires from Napa too if you do need them

I use the GM Iridium plugs (stock plugs) That'* just me, you have plenty of options

The SC oil (if you go to GM) is pt # 12345982. The recomended change is ever 30K. It'* ~$8 / bottle (4 oz) and the */C needs 2 bottles I think

If it say'* Bosch, anywhere on the box, don't buy it for your car.

Kudos on the Bonneville and welcome to the club
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