New Questions for repairs.. UPDATED - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-24-2005, 06:59 PM   #1
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Default New Questions for repairs.. UPDATED

I'm going to try to get a couple birds with one post here, so thanks for the patience.

When I first got this car it had a sticking caliper issue and the pedal was mushy. Changing out the front brake lines ($30) fixed the sticking - seems they were letting fluid flow one way only. Also, at this time since I didn't have time to do it myself I paid a shop to completely flush and bleed the system ($65). Not too bad cash-wise.

The pedal is still mushy. The car still stops just fine, but now I have problems KEEPING the car stopped. It wants to creep at lights. I was on a steep driveway at the grocery store the other day waiting for traffic to clear and by the time there was an opening I was slowly creeping down the hill with my foot on the floor!

So, is it the master cylinder? Brake booster? Cost of other possible issues?

Next question - previous owner was a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of guy, and doesn't seem to remember ever changing the trans fluid (he drove the car from 35k-135K) and now I have a couple isues. First is that the gear change from 1st to 2nd is vicious. Like under WOT it'll rip the wheel from my hands - otherwise not at all pleasant unless you lift off some before the change. Next is the change between 3rd and 4th - it hesitates and sort of growls during either the upshift or downshift. Usually I notice it on one of the 45mph hills near my place - start going up the hill in 4th, give it a little throttle and the clutch will engage and then comes the "grgrgr" and it will take 3rd. It does the same at the top of the hill shifting back to 4th. Very disconcerting because I feel a slight vibration when it makes the noise.

Any ideas? If I drop the pan this weekend how likely is it that I'm going see burnt fluid sludge and millions of metal shavings?

Thanks for any replies.
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Old 03-24-2005, 07:47 PM   #2
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Default Re: New Questions for repairs..

It sounds to me like your Master Cylinder is shot and should be replaced asap.

I like your idea about dropping the trans pan this weekend. I'm SURE that you'll find that the oil is very dark but I doubt it will be full of "sludge". The magent at the bottom of the pan will be funky looking and will take you awhile to clean all the crap that'* accumulated over the years. Don't forget to take out the filter and replace it with a new one and replace the pan gasket as well(it usually comes with a trans filter). Torque the pan bolts to around 14 ft lbs, fill'r up with 6 or 7 quarts quarts of Dexron III Oil, and you should be good to go.
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Old 03-25-2005, 12:31 AM   #3
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Default Re: New Questions for repairs..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ol' Timer
It sounds to me like your Master Cylinder is shot and should be replaced asap.

I like your idea about dropping the trans pan this weekend. I'm SURE that you'll find that the oil is very dark but I doubt it will be full of "sludge". The magent at the bottom of the pan will be funky looking and will take you awhile to clean all the crap that'* accumulated over the years. Don't forget to take out the filter and replace it with a new one and replace the pan gasket as well(it usually comes with a trans filter). Torque the pan bolts to around 14 ft lbs, fill'r up with 6 or 7 quarts quarts of Dexron III Oil, and you should be good to go.
Cheers.
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Old 03-25-2005, 12:47 AM   #4
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Default Re: New Questions for repairs..

Quote:
Originally Posted by katfl0res

Next question - previous owner was a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of guy, and doesn't seem to remember ever changing the trans fluid (he drove the car from 35k-135K) and now I have a couple isues. First is that the gear change from 1st to 2nd is vicious. Like under WOT it'll rip the wheel from my hands - otherwise not at all pleasant unless you lift off some before the change. Next is the change between 3rd and 4th - it hesitates and sort of growls during either the upshift or downshift. Usually I notice it on one of the 45mph hills near my place - start going up the hill in 4th, give it a little throttle and the clutch will engage and then comes the "grgrgr" and it will take 3rd. It does the same at the top of the hill shifting back to 4th. Very disconcerting because I feel a slight vibration when it makes the noise.
.
dude same car same year, and mine does the same things, Violent 1-2 shift under the WOT but firm any other time. Its actually a Chuggle and there is a TSB for the 93, to replace the MEM-CAL to one that shifts at a higher piont. I have 72,000 on my car, its just normal, nothing to aorry about
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Old 03-25-2005, 12:51 AM   #5
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Old 03-25-2005, 01:23 AM   #6
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I can definitely see how the 1-2 accumulator spring or piston could be causing the first issue (hard 1-2 shift). I would have to guess a sticking piston over a broken or shot spring though, especially considering the quality of the fluid in there I bet there'* a nasty nasty clog.

But what is causing the 3-4 thing? 1993 SLE describes it well saying "Chuggle", it really does sound like it'* gurgling something around in there, bringing new meaning to the phrase "slush box"!
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Old 03-26-2005, 03:01 PM   #7
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Kat, if brakes were bled right, your master cyl is probably kaput. There is a transmission shop in st. charles that removes and cleans pan with a complete flush for around $60. This replaces ALL fluid in system. Most places that flush use different method and don't remove pan. Will look up name if you're intersted.
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Old 03-28-2005, 01:49 PM   #8
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techy, thanks for the info... too bad I already started @ 10:00am saturday morning!

I dropped the pan and got about 7 quarts of the nastiest nasty you've ever seen. Oh man it was this dark orange color and it almost looked like metallic paint. Smelled awful too... I took the pan inside and starting scooping out the sludge. When I was done my hands were covered in metallic goop - i was like the tin man! Well I scrubbed the pan clean using dish soap and a brillo pad. Surprisingly the gasket was still in great shape so I just used some red RTV on one side and stuck it on there.

While the pan was off I took all those little 8mm bolts out and got into the accumulator housing. I soaked all of that is acetone for a few minutes and cleaned out the gunk with Qtips and put it all back together. I temporarily freaked myself out when I forgot which side of the accumulator got the double springs, but then I remembered and it was all good.

I put in a new filter and bolted it all back together, topped 'er off with 7 quarts of Dexron III and went for a test drive. Wow what a difference! The 1-2 shift is still firm but there'* no delay anymore - it just knocks into gear and goes. Also the 3-4 "chuggle" is drastically quieted. Everything just works smoother now. I think I'm going to do this again in another 500 miles or so to get more of the gunk out.

As for the brakes well that'* another story. I personally hate working on brakes, especially by myself with only ramps and one jack. Maybe the brake fairy will come to my house soon and drop me $350 to go get it taken care of professionally...
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Old 03-29-2005, 11:14 AM   #9
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If the brakes go to the floor it sounds like a master cylinder issue or they didn't
bleed them properly. You have to burp the air out at the master first before proceeding
to the wheels.
Did anyone ever take up on the rear shoe adjusters?
Don't fool around with brakes. If they don't work right get it fixxed ASAP.
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