Need to add about 2 quarts of oil between oil changes - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-14-2004, 02:41 AM   #11
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How would you rate mobil oil in general. I am not talking about mobile 1 of course, but regular dino mobil oil compared to others. And he does change his oil every 3000 miles or so. He just adds oil as necessary so the engine doesn't get low in between oil changes. Oh, teleplayer, I noticed that you cleaned your evaporator. I tried doing by following the instructions in the tech section of this site, but it didn't work for me. I couldn't even really get to the evaporator. Did you follow the same instructions, or did you do something else. Thanks.
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Old 09-14-2004, 03:59 AM   #12
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mobil one.. mmmm.. I'd try some "high mileage" oil.. i somehow think its a gimmic, but try it out. I believe there is a "full synthetic" one.. see if that is feasable. If you can get it, go for it. Do 2-3 oil changes on it first though, that way you'll get the full effect.


-justin
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Old 09-14-2004, 08:29 AM   #13
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hey guys, this could be lower intake gaskets... those make you leak oil into the upper intake like crazy. when i replaced my upper and lower gaskets, I had pools of oil sitting on my lower intake manifold. The two 'hidden' bolts were even more hidden, because they were sitting below an inch of oil...
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Old 09-14-2004, 10:12 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sputnik767
How would you rate mobil oil in general. I am not talking about mobile 1 of course, but regular dino mobil oil compared to others. And he does change his oil every 3000 miles or so. He just adds oil as necessary so the engine doesn't get low in between oil changes. Oh, teleplayer, I noticed that you cleaned your evaporator. I tried doing by following the instructions in the tech section of this site, but it didn't work for me. I couldn't even really get to the evaporator. Did you follow the same instructions, or did you do something else. Thanks.
Mobil is probably ok, but I notice it is always one of the least expensive, so I bet it doesn't have the additive package of some of the premium brands. So maybe it breaks down sooner. ???

Yes, I did it by removing the blower motor "resistor". It'* not really a resistor, but an electronic circuit. When you remove that, you have a rectangular opening maybe 2 x 3" to work through. It'* not easy. I started with a vacuum cleaner and a piece of wire, picking loose all the big stuff like pine needles, etc. A small inspection mirror helps you see inside.

I then used some soapy water and various small brushes, to brush away the crap from the face of the evaporator. It took a long time. I avoided the use of solvents like brakekleen, I didn't want to smell that crap inside the car.

I also used a garden hose a lot. And I did make the mistake of soaking the carpet !!!

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-14-2004, 10:39 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sputnik767
How would you rate mobil oil in general. I am not talking about mobile 1 of course, but regular dino mobil oil compared to others.
Mobil Drive Clean is a lower grade base stock with lots of additives. I would have him try a thicker oil like 10W40 dino oil -- Havoline is good -- better base stock and a good additive pack -- and reasonably priced at Walmart. I would also try a HDEO oil like Chevron Delo 15W40.
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Old 09-14-2004, 02:24 PM   #16
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Thanks a lot for your replies everyone. I just replaced his pcv valve, and the old one was covered in oil inside and out. Don't know if that means anything, but they should not have oil on them, right? The old one seemed fine however, when I shook it, it rattled like the new one.
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Old 09-14-2004, 08:53 PM   #17
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sputnik767, please do this test: With the engine idling, remove the oil filler cap.

Did you notice air rushing in? -like there was a vacuum in the crankcase?
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Old 09-14-2004, 10:09 PM   #18
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I actually tried that today, and I did not notice any vacuum. I tried listening for it, but could not hear anything over the engine. I did put my hand over the hole, and there was no vacuum. Is that good or bad. Thanks to everyone for all your help by the way.
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Old 09-14-2004, 10:56 PM   #19
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sputnik, thanks for the reply. Having no vacuum there is perfect, just the way it should be. That rules out at least one path for oil to get into your combustion process.

So, I'm right back to my first suspicion: And that is worn, or failing oil control rings.

My experience years ago (different engine) was EXACTLY as was described by crzydmnd72. I mean EXACTLY: -clean plugs, oil disappearing at astonishing rate (-sounds like your'* is not nearly as bad) and absolutely no trace, EXCEPT when someone observed from behind the car, at road speed, and standing on the loud pedal, then there was some slight blue smoke. My engine was actually burning oil as cleanly as gasoline.

As I have stated before, a compression test may come out just fine,(-even the "wet/dry" test) if the top two rings (compression rings) are still good. But you can still have failing oil control rings (the third ring set, double scrapers w/expander).

If you are really lucky you may find some success with using something that would effectively "clean" the oil rings, if they are suffering from any degree of sludge or other deposits. BUT, I'm just not a very big believer in the magic potions.

Other folks may be able to share some positive experiences with using products to "clean/ or free sticky rings."
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Old 09-14-2004, 11:02 PM   #20
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Just had another thought, Cases of motor oil is still WAY WAY cheaper than any type of mechanical work. May be better to "just drive it" and add that quart at every third tank full of gas, -or whatever it is.
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