My temp gauge in the dash is a LIAR! (Update, It works now)
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From: SW Indiana
Originally Posted by ron350
The other sensor has one leg grounded to the case and connects to the third wire on the sending unit plug. This is why the sending unit has to have good contact with the lower intake manifold to function properly.
Thanks Ron, great information. I replaced the 3-wire sensor under the thermostat housing and I used Rectorseal #5 as a thread sealer and I bet it'* insulating the sensor from the block. I am going to run a jumper wire from the sensor to ground and see if my gauge wakes up. If so, I'll have to remove the sensor and use an electrically conductive sealer. What sealer do you recomend?
Tumbleweed
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From: SW Indiana
I backed the sensor out to the last thread and used a wire brush and some electrical cleaner on the threads and re-installed. No change in temp gauge. Also tried a jumper wire from the sensor body to the battery ground and still no good. Must be a problem with the gauge cluster.
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Don’t know of any electrically conductive thread sealer but it would be nice to have some.
New sending units have orange stuff on the threads for sealer.
The wires going to my temp sending unit are.
Green = Goes to dash temp gauge
Yellow = Goes to PCM
Black = Goes to PCM ground.
New sending units have orange stuff on the threads for sealer.
The wires going to my temp sending unit are.
Green = Goes to dash temp gauge
Yellow = Goes to PCM
Black = Goes to PCM ground.
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From: SW Indiana
Thanks for the color scheme on the wires. I also have green yellow and black going to the sensor. I'll get a scan tool on it and see what temp value the PCM is picking up.
Tumbleweed
Tumbleweed
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From: SW Indiana
Sensor is good. Scan tool shows 196 degrees at the PCM. Gauge in dash is toast.
GM parts direct shows part number 16221192 1996 Instrument Panel Guage Cluster for $868.43
WOOOOWWWW!!
Does anyone have leads on a good replacement gauge cluster?
Tumbleweed
GM parts direct shows part number 16221192 1996 Instrument Panel Guage Cluster for $868.43
WOOOOWWWW!!Does anyone have leads on a good replacement gauge cluster?
Tumbleweed
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From: B'ham.AL
Another test to try.
Pierce the green wire going to the sending unit with safety pin or needle and jump that to ground. Now turn the ignition switch to run and see if the gauge reads over 195*.
Pierce the green wire going to the sending unit with safety pin or needle and jump that to ground. Now turn the ignition switch to run and see if the gauge reads over 195*.
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From: B'ham.AL
That test should peg the temp gauge all the way hot.
If 220* is not all the way hot on the gauge it looks like you have a bad gauge.
If 220* is max hot on that gauge you have a sending unit problem.
Service manual shows green wire going directly to dash temp gauge.
Wish I could be more help but my 96 Regal only has hash marks on the temp gauge. On my car grounding green wire pegs dash gauge past the last hot mark.
If 220* is not all the way hot on the gauge it looks like you have a bad gauge.
If 220* is max hot on that gauge you have a sending unit problem.
Service manual shows green wire going directly to dash temp gauge.
Wish I could be more help but my 96 Regal only has hash marks on the temp gauge. On my car grounding green wire pegs dash gauge past the last hot mark.
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Originally Posted by Logan
I'm fairly sure that it would though. Isn't that why we can't run 160'*...one of the many reasons we can't use them.
The SES light will come on after a given amount of time if the engine hasn't reached operating temps... The PCM watches and waits for the engine to start to warm up, If the engine stays below a certain point say 160F, Most likely a little lower, the SES light will be commanded on by the PCM to indicate to you that there is a problem... That is why we reccomend a 180F as the lowest, unless you PCM is set for a 160F thermostat.... 180 will be low enough for the majority...
From what I have gathered the Clusters are all off in some manner... I have yet to find one that was DOBA...
Most are 100-300 Rpms off, a couple of volts off at times, and 20-30F off.... so it all varies...
On my 95 Bonneville it shows what appears to be 160 when the PCM is seeing 180-182F...
On my 91 it looks like 170F and its dead on 180F... So they are all off a little...
I believe that you could run a 160F thermostat, but in any cold weather you are going to cause issues with the engine management as well as get kind of cold trying to heat up in the car...lol
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