Warning, I'm not even a novice at this stuff. I'm sure I will have some parts named wrong.

I have a 93 SE, purchased used with a boatload of miles on it.

It ran great for about 8 months then as soon as the summer weather started I began having problems.

Intermittent sputters that sometimes lead to stalls. No noticeable pattern in when or why. Sometimes right after starting when the car has been sitting for hours, sometimes after a few minutes driving, sometimes after a good while. Uphill, downhill, accelerating, coasting.

Less frequent - Outright stalls with no warning, just shuts off. Usually - but not always, when coasting or slowing without breaking.

Most anytime the car has been driving more than half an hour to 45 minutes after stopping, it will not restart until the engine has cooled down to about 150. The car does not overheat, rarely rising past the 200? mark on the guage.

Things that have been done ( in no particular order and including presumed irrelevant tasks )

oil /filter changes
New muffler and leaks in the pipe welded
air filter
serpentine
spark control module
Rubber splicer for coolant exit from the engine block replaced with metal part. ( sorry, no idea what this is called )

Today I discovered that the IAT ( or what I believe to be the IAT was out of the air filter housing and kinda sitting loose. It looks horribly corroded. Couldn't find the replacement part at a local advanced auto.

I also have new O2 sensor and a thermostat to attempt replacement on, as well as sparkplugs I have yet to do. It doesn't seem to be running rough - but it'* possible I'm just not sensitive enough to the "rough" to tell. It doesn't sound like it'* misfiring.

Any thoughts?

Welcome to the Bonneville Club. Is the "Service Engine Soon" light on?

Copied from another post -
Let'* cover the free stuff first. These are all good preventive maintenance items.
1 - Clean both ends of all battery cables. Remove all the bolts & rubber boots from the cables so you can find the corrosion. Clean them with a wire brush or sandpaper. Coat them with dielectric grease before reassembling.
2 - Clean the ground bus on both sides of the car. Remove the metal bar from the bus & clean both the male & female ends of the bus terminals. Coat the metal bar with dielectric grease before reassembling.
3 - Remove the coils, ICM & ICM mounting plate. Clean the top of the mounting bracket, both sides of the mounting plate and the bottom of the ICM. Coat all four surfaces with dielectric grease before reassembling.
4 – Make sure all the spark plug wires are going to the correct cylinder.

Disconnect your battery cables, pull the boots back, and clean any corrosion you may have. This is a common problem for some of your symptoms.

Check your fuel pressure at key on for 2 seconds (repeat three times and report the pressure), then at idle, then at idle with the vac line off the fuel pressure regulator.

Check for corrosion here:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=102

It sounds like a weak fuel pump that is ready to go

Which is why I suggested checking his fuel pressure (as opposed to shotgunning the fuel pump).

Easier on the wallet.

This is done with a gauge or tones?

with a gauge on the schreider valve on the fuel rail.

first confirm the pump is turning on by listening, if it is, get a gauge on there.

a gauge is about $40 at a parts store, or find someone with one